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AS TAUGHT ]^/ /J^ 

PROFESSOR W/1^Wm.LA0E, 

rOG«^ER WITH / 

Treatise on Shoeing y^iseases of Horses, and their 
Treatment, Valuable Recipes, etc. 



WRITTEN BT 



PROFESSOR \\'. E. WALLACE, 

AUTHOR OF THE NEW SYSTEM CfF HORSE-TRAINING. 
COPYRIGHT SECURED. 



SAN FRANCISCO, CAL. 

ALTA CALIFORNIA GENERAL PRINTING HOUSE. 

1868. 



THE 

IMPROVED SYSTEM 

OF 

HORSE TEAININe, 

AS TAUGHT BY 

PROFESSOR W. E. WALLACE, 

TOGETHER \\aTn 

A TREATISE OK SHOEING, DISEASES OF 

HORSES AND THEIR TREATMENT, 

VALUABLE RECIPES, ETC. 

%VRITTEK BY 
Prof. W. E. WALLACE, 

Author of the New System of Horse Training, 



1 






OTSEGoK;- 
WILL F. AUSTIN, PRINTER, 
1868. 



PREFACE, 



The great desire of those who have witnessed 
our success in handling and subduing wild and 
vicious horses to get our system in printed form, 
has induced us — contrary to our first intentions — 
to publish it, hoping by so doing to make our efforts 
more acceptable and uselul. In doing so, we do 
not assume the capacity of those claiming distinc- 
tion as horsemen. The only approbation we expect 
is that which we may deserve from the practical 
results of our system of instruction. We have 
endeavored in this, as in our lectures before a class, 
to make every principle presented by us clearly 
understood, and claim that our theoiy is valuable in 
its practical results, rather than for the words in 
which it is stated. This system of controlling and 
subduing horses is conceded by practical horsemen 
to be the most thorough and complete now known, 
and is the result of many experiments and a thor- 
ough investigation and trial of the different methods 
of horsemanship now in use. 



TO PURCHASERS. 

THIS BOOK, AXD OUR SYSTEM, 

BEING COPYRIGHTED, 

rUECIIASERS HAVE EVERY RIGHT OF USING, 

BUT NO RIGHT OF TEACHING OR 

TRANSFERING TO OTHERS, 

THE BOOK OR ITS 

CONTENTS, 

THOSE 

DOING SO 

WILL RENDER 

THEMSELVES LIABLE 

-TO- 

PI103ECUTI0N, 



'Tjaws of CoPYRiGnT.^^^^he exclusive benefits of copy rlg'^ts 
extend to twenty-eight years — then renewable for fourteen yearg, 
if the author is dead, to the heirs, by re-recording ard advertis- 
ing the re-record for four vvepks iu aqy newspaper iu the United 
States. 

The forfeiture of all the books, and a penalty of fifty cents on 
each sheet, (16 pages,) in the work, half to the United States and 
half to the author, i« the penaltv for publishing or importing any 
work without the written consent of the author ; and the printoF 
jji e(j[ually liable with the publisher. 



INTRODUCTION. 



My object in presenting this work to the public, 
is, in one sense, tlie object of all other men in pub- 
lishing books. Man, under the ordinaiy aiTange- 
ment of society, seeks his own interests. This is a 
natui'al result of life, and it is from this fact that 
man naturally inquires in what that interest rests. 
I now propose, in this book, to set forth one of the 
greatest temporal interests of man — one in which 
nearly all men, everywhere, are equally interested, 
and in so doing I shall introduce as the gi*eat bene- 
fuctov of man, the Horse. According to the best 
authorities, the horse has been the constant seiwant 
of man for over four thousand years, ever reward- 
ing him by his labor, and adding to his comfort 
and plea^sure in proportion to his skill in managing 
him ; but being very often a vicious and dangerous 
servant to those who govern him by brute force, 
and know nothing of the advantages and delight 
to be gained by a cultivation of his nature ; while 
to the Arab, whose horse is the pride of his heart, 
and who governs him by the law of kindness, he is 
a veiy different animal. The manner in which he 
is treated from a foal, gives him an attachment for 
his master not known in any other country. 



6 IIOliSE TRAININQ 

The first domestication of the horse — the great- 
est acliievement of man in the animal kingdom — 
was not the work of a day; but, like all other 
accomplishments, was brought about by a gradual 
process of observation and experience. He first 
Bubdued the more inferior animals, on account of 
then- being more easily caught and tamed. This 
noble animal, being the last brought into subjuga- 
tion — owing, probably, to man's limited and inac- 
cui'ate knowledge of his nature, and his consequent 
inability to control him — is, of itself, sufticient 
evidence of his superiority to all other animals. 

Horsemanship has reached its present stage of 
perfection by a gradual process of experiments and 
discoveries. In all man's inventions and discov- 
eries, he has invariably commenced with some sim- 
ple principle, and gradually developed it from one 
degi'ee of perfection to another. 

The first hint of the power of electricity was 
Franklin's bringing it down on the string of hia 
kite. Now, it may be said that man has entire 
control of the subtle element — making it the 
insti-ument of transmitting thought from one 
extremity of the globe to the other with a rapidity 
that surpasses time. And the great propelling 
power that forces the wheels of the steam car over 
vast continents, and plows the ocean and rivers 
with thousands of steamers, was first dii*covered 
escaping from a teakettle. And so the powers of 
the horse, second only to the power of steam, have 
become known to man only as observation and 
investigation revealed them. 

We believe that the horse is governed by his 
animal instincts and nature, and that he has no 
rational conception of mind or thought; yet w 



I 



HORSE TR^VIKm<5 7 

contend tlmt he can be educated more e<aHlIy than 
any other animal known to civilization, if taken in 
conforiuity Avith the laws of his nature. I \nll now 
give you the three fundamental principles of my 
theory, those principles being founded on the lead- 
ing characteristics of the animal : 

1. That he is so constituted by nature that he 
will not offer resistance to any demand made of 
him which he fully comprehends, if made consist- 
ent with the laws of his nature. 

2. That he has no consciousness of his strength 
beyond his experience, and can be handled accord 
ing to om- will, without force. 

3. That we can, in compliance Tvdth the laws of 
his nature — by which he examines all things — 
take any object, however frightful, around or on 
him, that does not inflict pain, without causing him 
to fear. 

To take these assertions in order : 

First, I will tell you why I think the horse is 
^naturally obedient. Though possessed of sensi- 
tiveness to a gi-eater degree than man, he is defi- 
cient in reasoning power — has ho knowledge of 
right or ^Tong, or Tvdll of his own independent of 
government, and knows of no imposition practiced 
upon him, however unreasonable those impositions 
may be, consequently he can come to no conclusion 
what he should or should not do — because he has 
not the reasoning powers of man to argue the 
justice of the thing demanded of him. If he were 
able to take into consideration his superior strength, 
he would be useless to man as a servant. Give him 
knowledge in proportion to his strength, and he 
will demand of us the green fields as his inheri- 
tance, where he will roam at will, denying the right 



8 HORSE TKAINIXO. 

of sei*vitude to all ; but God has wisely formed liiii 
nature bo that it can be acted upon by the knowl- 
edc^e of man, according to the dictates of his will, 
and he might well be termed the unconscious and 
pubmissive servant. Then we can but come to the 
conclusion that if the horse is not taken at variaiK-e 
with the laws of his nature, he will do anything 
that he comprehends without making an ofier of 
resistance. 

Second, The fact of the horse being unconscious 
of the amount of his strength, can be proven to 
the satisfaction of any one who will take the 
trouble to obsen^e him for a day. 

Third, That he will allow any object, however 
frightful, to come around or over him, that does 
not inflict pain. We know from a natural course 
of reasoning that there has never been an effect 
without ft cause. And we argue from this that 
there can be no action, either in animate or inani- 
mate nature, -without there fii'st being a cause to 
produce it ; and from this self-e\'ident fact we know 
there is some cause for every impulse or movement 
of either mind or matter, and that that law gov- 
erns eveiy action or movement of the animal king- 
dom. Then, according to this theory', there must 
be some cause before fear can exist, and if fear 
exists from the effects of imagination, and not from 
the infliction of pain, it can be removed by com- 
plying with the laws of his nature, by which he 
examines objects and decides upon their innocence 
or harm. 

I hold the theory that the horse is a teachable 
creature — that he can be educated, and when fully 
and properly taught, the knowledge is as durable 
as life — except the principles taught arc forced 



UORSS TBAININQ. 9 

from him by systematic mismanagement — and I 
believe the horse is much easier taught than man. 
I claim for this system a superiority over all others, 
for the reason, that all other general systems that 
have been introduced have been both laborious and 
dangerous to man and beast, while this system is 
both safe and easy — from the fact of its beinjo^ a 
natural one. I further contend and believe that 
this syutem of training the horse is the most per- 
fect now known, and challenge the world to confute 
the principles on which it is based. 

W. K WALLACE. 



HORSE TRAINING. 



1 



r.«> ; •■! fMi, M^^S SUPERIORITT. 

Man 18 superior to the horse because of his intel- 
lectual resources, by which he can devise and adopt 
means to overcome the strength of the horse, or 
employ it against itself The secret of training 
and managing horses lies in this mental superiority. 
The wisdom of Deity is infinite, and man must 
bow before it. Man becomes superior to ignorant 
horse only so far as he can manage and impress 
him with a sense of undoubted superiority. Recog- 
nizing the need of conforming to the laws of his 
nature so as not to excite his resistance, do not let 
him comprehend it possible to resist control. Seek 
in the second place to so disconcert and control him, 
under all circumstances, as to impress him most 
forcibly with man's power and absolute supremacy. 

NECESSITY OF KINDNESS AND HONESTY. 

The first step in the accomplishment of this is 
attained by uniform actions of kindness in his man- 
agement, thus winning his confidence. And he 
takes man exactly for what he proves himself by 
his actions, and doubts and fears only as taught by 
our actions towards him. Learning as he does to 
associate with man's presence a feeling of proteo- 



<■ .; 
"aORflE TRAJa^lKQ. 11 

tion and security, there can be no fear or doubt, 
because never taught to doubt by decei^tion. Even 
among men" the principle is the same : that man 
who 13 always found truthful and who j)erform8 
exactly what he promises to do, becomes a standard 
of public confidence and trust; but he who disre- 
gards truth and the principles of honor, becomes 
an object of suspicion to all who know him. So 
we are forced to believe that the horse becomes, in 
the character of its habits, Avhat he is made, in 
exact proportion to the teaching and example to 
w^hich haa been subjected. 

,'V THE NECESSITY OF INTELLIGENT MEANS. 

Prudence in conforming to the laws of the 
horse's nature, and winning his confidence by kind- 
ness, though indispensable, is only as the caution 
guarding against the force of a momentum there 
is no ability to control, and there would be no need 
of subduing the horse by force had there been no 
law of his nature violated. Since effects must be 
the result of causes, every consequence requiring 
the genius of man to combat and to control, must 
be the result of his own impiaidence or ignorance. 
Harshness and the neglect of this necessary atten- 
tion, while mainly the cause of mischief, lead us to 
infer that the absence of such causes, w^ith corre- 
sponding regard for the laws of kindness, are 
sutlicient to win the bad horse to a forgetfulness 
of his power of resistance. The course of reason- 
ing that teaches him man's ability to enforce his 
assumed supremacy, must also demonstrate to his 
understanding man's ability to enforce absolute and 
unconstitutional submission under all cii'cuinstanceii 



12 BOUSS TBJkXSTXq^ 

of resistance^ in fact, to disconcert and beat him on 
his own ground with the apparent ease and certain- 
ty of positive ability, without resorting to harsh 
means or inflicting pain. For as the aim of the 
physician is to subdue the force and eflfect of the 
disease by using remedies the least aggravating in 
their action on the system, so the aim of the horse- 
man should be, in enforcing the submission of the 
horse, to do iti m nearly as possible, on a moral 

NECESSITY OF THOROUGH TRAINING. 

The horse^s confidence and rebellion being mm* 
ally the result of long experience in suooessful 
resistance, his subjugation must be made convincing 
by repeated proofs of being over-matched, and that 
resistance is useless. For since his wilfulness and 
rebellion are based upon the limited reasoning of 
his experience, he must be thoroughly convinced 
by experience that unconditional submission is the 
only alternative, and this you cannot prove to the 
understanding of the horse \\nthout repeating your 
lessons until he submits unconditionally. But as 
nursing and care are needful to enable the patient 
to overcome the power of disease, in any given 
case, so in the subjugation of the horse. nU sub- 
mission should be encouraged and rewarded by 
kindness and caressing ; that master is supreme in 
his control, and submission to his commands be- 
comes a pleasure, who has the power to enforce hia 
will, but who exercises it with the sweetening en- 
i3oui-agement of love. While force is necessary, 
and you have the means of making your horse 
almost a plaything in your hands, let the silken 



nOIiSK TRAIXINO, IS"' 

cord of love be the cement tliat fixes and secures 
his submission to your will. It is admitted tliat a 
good-natured clever man can teach a horse almost 
anything, and it has become a proverb that kind- 
ness will lead an elephant by a hair. So the horse 
should be treated with kindness and consideration. 
His spirit should be curbed and directed — but not 
subdued. Man has the right of control, restraint, 
correction, and even destruction of life, but we 
must bear the consequences of those violations of 
the laws of his nature to which he is thereby sub- 
jected. Show your horse exactly what you want 
him to do, and endeavor to use the patience and 
reason in teaching and controlling him you would 
at least believe necessary for yourself to understand 
if placed in like circumstances. Ignorant of the 
language and intentions of a teacher, who even 
preserved hi« patience and refrained from abuse^ 
what progress would you make as a pupil, gifted as 
you are with all your intelligence? If possible, 
ennoble and elevate your feelings by relieving your 
responsibility to youi'self, to community, and to the 
noble animal committed to your charge. Make 
your horse a friend by kindness and good treatment. 
i3e a kind master, and not a tyrant, and make your 
horse a willing servant and a slave. 

WINTERING FARM HORSES. 

Some farmers treat their horses in winter much as 
they do their fattening cattle and sheep ; they give 
them abundant food, and but little exercise, keep 
them in a warm and dimly lighted stable, and it 
they do not gi*ow fat, with their cattle and sheep^ 
they de«m it convincing proof that the proper course 



14 nOHSE TBADnsd 

ha* been pursmed. Kow, horses in good working 
condition, at least, slioiild always be seen on the 
premises of a good farmer, but his gratitude 
toward these faithful servants should not induce 
him, at any time of the year, to stall feed them. 
The butcher wants thick meat and plenty of tallow 
in the cattle and sheep, but the plowman looks for 
strong muscle, spirit and endurance in his team. 
The food and care of the different animals should 
be consistent with the ultimate purpose they are to 
Berve. Fat hoi'ses that have been wintered mostly 
in the stable, without much exercise, are not fit for 
hard service at the opening of the working season 
in the spring, and a prolific source of disease is the 
hard work they are compelled to do when they aro 
not in a proper condition. 

The ordinary winter business of the farmer does 
not call for much exercise of hia team, and if he 
have several, most of them may be entirely idle. 
In such cases it is an excellent plan to have a yard 
for their especial benefit, well littered and safe, and 
let them have access to it several hours each day. 
The horses should be unshod, and if any are vicious 
they may be turned loose at different hours from the 
others. The horses will show by their playful ac- 
tions how much they enjoy this temporary relief 
from the stall. Another veiy important thing, often 
neglected by farmers, is the grooming of their 
teams. In the summer time, the horse by rolling in 
the pasture, to a certain extent cleans himself; be- 
sides, the rains have some effect. But in the stable 
he relies on the care of his master, and the keen 
enjoyment the curiy-comb and brush evidently give 
him, should be ample reward for the labor. A well 



nOIiSB TUACflNO. 15 

liglited stable, thorougly ventilated yet free from 
cuiTents of air, should also be provided. 

In regard to the feed for horses, most farmers, we 
think, will agree to the proposition that it is good 
economy to grind or mash all kinds of gi-ain before 
feeding. It is well established that cut straw, corn- 
stalks or other coarse fodder, fed with some grain, 
is cheaper than to winter the horses wholly on hay. 
Without stopping to assign reasons, we think they 
also come out in spring in better condition than 
when fed on hay alone. Good wheat or oat straw 
fed with bran strengthened with corn meal, has been 
found excellent. When the weather is not too cold 
it is preferable to dampen the cut hay or straw and 
sprinkle the meal on it. 

The wintering of horses should begin with the 
first approach of cold autumn nights. No work 
horse should now be left in the pasture, except in- 
the daytime. Exposure to a single autumn storm 
might cause damage enough to farmer's teamu to 
have paid for years of timely care. 

THE ^VILD COLT. 

As the training of the horse must be based upon 
the observance of those principles of his nature re- 
quiring the exercise of his reason in everything 
forced upon his attention, and of conveying to his 
understanding most clearly what is requu'ed of him, 
it is advisable to commence our lessons on the man- 
agement of horses by explaining how to proceed 
with the wild colt. 

Fu'st, prepare your barn, or such place as you de- 
sign for your training room. Everything tending 
to annoy or ejcito your colt— hens, hogs, or dogs, 



i6 n'ORSK TR-VIKIKO. 

miist be driven out. Endeavor to be all alone with 
your horse. Do not suffer the curious — who will be 
anxious to judge of your ability, as they would term 
it — to crowd in. Guard against such a nuisance, if 
possible, and as such persons are usually slow to 
take a hint, be decisive in your wishes, observing 
that it is a positive condition of your instructions. 
Your object next is to get your colt into his place, 
which you must do as quietly and gently as possible. 
You can accomplish this best by leading in and 
hitching in his view a broke horse. The colt will, 
generally, soon walk in of his own accord, but if he 
should not, do not be in a hurry to drive him in. 
Walk quietly around him, and gradually give him 
less room by closing in upon him. Be slow and 
careful, and he will not run or become frightened. 
Give him time to examine and look around, and in 
a short time he will walk in. When in, remove the 
old horse as quickly as possible. 

There are two ways of haltering, either of which 
will answer. We will give both ways, and the 
scholar may adopt the one best suited to the case. 
The first is, to approach and familiarize yourself to 
the colt until he will let you handle him as you 
please, when the halter may easily be put on. The 
other method is, to get the halter on before you 
have succeeded in gentling him much. In ordinary 
cases the first one will be the most practicable, but 
if the colt is extremely wild and nervous, the latter 
is preferred ; because a much quicker method, and 
does not excite. 

FIRST METHOD FOR ORDINARY CASES. 

Aa soon as he appears quiet and reconciled to the 



HORSE TRAINING. 17 

Cvonstraint of tlie enclosure, go cautiously and slow- 
ly towards hini, luakiiiG: no demonstration at all, but 
talking gently, or singing, as you please. He does 
not understand your language, and you talk or sing 
the sooner to reconcile him to your presence and at- 
tract his attention. If he begins to walk away from 
you, stop, but continue your talking or singing, and 
appear as careless as you can about his presence, 
Until he becomes quiet agnin. Then start again 
and leisurely approach him as before, and so repeat 
as circumstances require until you are close enough 
to touch his withers, or permit him to smell of your 
hand, should he seem so disposed. Remember you 
must be patient and gentle in all your actions. Now 
touch liim on the T^dthers, gently, and gradually win 
bis confidence so that you can handle and rub his 
neck and finally the head. Do not try to hold him 
or impose the least restraint ; that would cause him 
to become excited and afraid of you. Fondle the 
colt in this way until he becomes reconciled to your 
presence, and will suiFer you to scratch or handle 
him as you please. Now step back and take your 
halter quietly. The halter should be of leather, 
Kope halters are objectionable, for young horses in 
particular ; they are so hard that they hurt the head 
whenever the colt pulls. Being hurt, the colt mil 
instinctively tiy to get his head out of the halter, 
and the more it pulls the more it will huit, because 
the tighter and harder it ^^dll j)inch — which will 
frighten him the more — and he will try to free him- 
self at all hazards, until he pulls himself down or 
possibly breaks the halter. In that case, his experi- 
ence would have been a bad one, for you would 
have taught him to be a halter-puller. 

You should take the halter in the left hand, hav- 



18= HORSE TRAINI&^G, 

ing unbuckled it, and approach the colt slowly; 
don't be in a hurry; give him time to smell and 
examine every part in his own way. While he is 
examining the halter, caress and rub him, and it 
will further your elForts gi-eatly to give the colt 
something he likes — such as apples, oats, corn, or 
anj^thing he likes that you can get hold o^ handily. 
Then take hold of the long strajD Avhich goes over 
his head, Avith your right hand, and carry it under 
his neck, while you reach the left hand over the- 
neck and gi'asp the end of the long strap ; then 
lower the halter just enough to get his nose intO' 
the nose-piece, and then raise it up to its proper 
place and buckle. This is the best method to halter 
a colt if he is not extremely wild ; but if your sub- 
ject is wild and nervous, the following method is 
much the best. 

SECOKD~METIIOD OF HALTERING A COLT.- 

IfKe other method is to make the colt follow be- 
fore putting the halter on. You first learn the colt 
what the words " come here" mean, which is taught 
him by using the words and giving the sign, for the 
horse learns nothing by words alone. To teach him 
the sign, first get the colt into a room say sixteen 
feet square ; let him remain alone in the room ten 
or fifteen minutes, then enter quietly, whip in your 
hand, approach to the centre of the room, moving 
your whip gently, and talking low to the horse; 
then reach the whip towards him, at the same time 
rubbing the horse on the back and neck with it, 
giving him to understand he is not to be hurt ; thi» 
will give him confidence in you, which should never 
fee betrayed. You then say, " come here," and give 



HORSE TRAmiNG^ 19 

<hiin the sign by tapping him on the opposite side of 
the neck with the whip, which will cause him to 
start around. Continue using the words " come 
Iiere," and tapping him until you have him circled 
up to you. Let him know you are his friend by 
talking kindly and caressing him. You then re- 
verse the operation and have him circle the other 
way, and when he comes to you repeat the caressr- 
ing. This done, start off and tell him to come. If 
he does not stail readily, tap him on the back with 
the whip, which will cause him to start forward, 
and when he does start a step forward caress him. 
In half aa Jaour's time any colt will follow you. 

HOW TO HAlfDLE THE FEET. 

After submitting sufficiently to lead well, caress 
;and iTib him on the withers, as at first, and, as soon 
as he will bear, work down the shoulder and leg; 
then lift lightly on the foot ; if it is submitted, rub 
it quickly and smoothly a few seconds, then put it 
4lown and take it again, and so continue until you 
^an handle the foot as you please. The main point 
for you to consider is, that you are to make the colt 
-understand you will not hurt him, and to do this 
jou must be gentle. Now place your hand on the 
withers and run it back over the side and hips softly 
and quickly ; handle every part thoroughly as you 
work along towards the leg, and as the colt will 
bear, work the hands around the leg until you 
reach the foot. If there is no resistance, lift it up 
^ little — just a little — and if there is no resist- 
ance, after letting it down rub and gentle a little 
more ; repeat, each time lifting it up a little higher, 
until you can take it up and handle it just as yo\i 



20 HORSE TKAIXING. 

please. Should he, however, resist and jerk his 
foot away from you, you must resort to means to 
make him understand that resistance is out of tlie 
question. In tampering with the colt you should 
have your Spanish halter on, as before described. 
Now take the long rope that you hold in your hand, 
put it around over the front teeth of the upper jaw 
and under the upper lip — carry it round over the 
top of the head, bringing the end dov>'n through 
the halter loop on the under jaw. Now take the 
end of the rope in youi left hand, and proceed as 
before to handle his legs and feet. If he stands 
quietly, use him gently ; but if he should resist, 
correct with your rope — by which you can inllict 
BO severe a punishment that he will submit uncon- 
ditionally in a veiy short time, and allovs^ you to 
handle his legs just as you choose. Persevere 
until you can hold the foot in your hand, moving 
it gently in the same way, then let it down and 
gentle and caress the leg until he gets over the 
fear inspired by the use of the cord under the lip. 
If more thorough training is necessary, see " Man ■ 
/igement of Horses bad to Shoe". 

TO M.4.KE A COLT FOLLOAV UNDER THE WHIP. 

After he eomes round to you readily by pulling 
a little on the halter, and follows freely, take your 
whip in the right hand, pull upon the halter a little, 
saying, "Come here, sir," at the same time tap 
lightly with the whip over the hips. He will yield 
to you mainly because you have taught him to yield 
to a slight pull upon the head, and to come to you 
at this signal, and because he wishes to get away 
from the touch of the whip behind. Aa soon as 



UOESE TItAININQ. 21 

he comes to 3^011, caress liini and feed liim some- 
thing that he 'likes from your hand. Repeat this 
until he comes to you as readily by tapping with 
the whip as he did at first to tlie halter. Now, 
instead of hitting with the whip, commence by 
snapping it behind him. If he comes, caress and 
encourage him as before, and so repeat at each 
time, increasing the distance from him, until he 
will follow or come to you readily by cracking tlio 
whip. We give this method because it is simple, 
and, in our judgment, practicable to most any one, 
and will bring the desired result m a short time — 
indeed so well as to make your horse follow around 
the streets without halter or bridle. 

TO TEACH THE COLT TO BACK. 

Put on the Spanish halter ; stand directly in front 
of your horse, having hold of the cord about tvrenty 
inches from the head with your left hand, resting 
your right on the cord six or seven inches from the 
head, you now say, "back, sir." Your horse does 
not know anything about wdiat you w^ant, of course, 
and does not obey. Immediately after saying 
"back," press down and back w^ith your right hand 
sharply on the cord, which will set the head back 
with a jerk. Do not expect your colt to go back 
without a struggle of resistance. Repeat this four 
or five minutes, being careful not to get excited. 
As a rule the colt will not go back with one lesson, 
probably not with the second, but will be sure to do 
so at the third lesson. The more intelligent and 
spirited the colt, the sooner he will submit, and the 
more ready his obedience. The duller and slower 
your subject, the more patient and persevering mutit 



22 HORSE TRAINING. 

be your efforts. It is now time to commence bitting 
youi- colt. 

■BITTING THE COLT. 

Some people seem to haye strange notions. It 
would seem as if the style and position of the head 
depended entirely upon the attention given to bit- 
ting. The object of bitting, it should be borne in 
mind, is to teach the horse to obey the rein, and, at 
the same time, habituate the liorse to give the head 
and neck as high an elevation as the form and tem- 
per of the animal will bear. But while it is admit- 
ted tliat careful attention to bitting will improve the 
style and bearing of the horse, it should not be for- A, 
gotten that the position in which the horse can'ies 1 
his head in harness will depend almost entirely upon 
his form and temper. No art can give the horse 
with a low perpendicular shoulder and short neck, a 
:fine style of carrying his head and neck — even if he 
possesses good courage and spirit. The pi*actice of 
straining tlie head and neck into an unnatm*al posi- 
tion, and keeping it so for hours, as is practiced 
generally in bitting, is often a cause of injuiy. 
When the head is strained u]) into an unnatural po- 
sition, and kept there for a long time, the colt will 
learn to relieve the pain and weariness he feels bj 
resting the entire weight of his head upon the bit, 
and which teaches him to lug uj^on the bit, and 
causes the mouth to become insensible to pressure. 
AYe will now explain wliat we regard as an inir- 
proved method of bitting, which teaches the horse 
•exactly what you require, and does not injure the 
anouth in the least, and by which you can bit a 
liorse well in about one horn* : by limiting your 



IIOKSE TRAINING. 23 

lessons to five inlnntes and repeating until the liei'.d 
is rendered freely and readily to the purpose of the 
rein, seldom requiring more than six or eight lesi'ons 
of five minutes each, 

now TO I^IAKE A lilTTING BRIDLE. 

Harness your colt ay an old horse. Use a straight 
smooth bit in your bridle ; liave bridle and liarnesS' 
fit well. Take a small cord, say half inch cord, 
twenty feet long, get the middle of the cord and 
hook it in the hook of the backhand. Have two 
small rings, one on each side of the bridle, fastened 
to the browband where the thrositlatch passes 
through ; pass your rope through the rings, one end 
on each side, then fetch the ends down and pass 
through the rings of the bridle bit, one end on each 
side, and then bring tlie ends back to the backhand 
of the harness and tie them there. The rope is not 
to be crossed anywhere. Do not make the rope too 
tight at first, but tighten it a little more every time 
you use it. After your harness and rope is on, back 
the colt into a single stall, his hind parts up against 
the manger ; tie a rope from the rings of the bits, 
one on each side, to the two outside parts of the 
stall, to keep his head straight, and to prevent him 
from going out of the stall. The rope being passed 
loose through the rings, will let his head play up 
and down and not make the neck stiflT or sore, nor 
make the colt stubborn. Twenty or thirty minutes 
twice a day is enough to use it. 

HITCHING COLT IN STALL. 

The stall should be prepared by having a rope 



24 HOUSE TRAINING. 

att.nched 80 as to cross the stall and fasten firmly, 
striking the hind parts just below whei'e the breech- 
en conies= — or a pole can be substituted by using 
staples. Lead the colt into the stall, pass the halter 
tlirough the rin^ or hole in the manger, and while 
holding the end stop back cautiously and tie your 
rope across the stall behind. Tie the halter long 
enough, so that the colt "Would strike the rope before 
feeling the restraint of the halter, in case he pulld 
back ; and untie the halter before taking doy>^n the 
rope. The character of the colt slioiild determine 
the necessity for the Use of this rope. If he is of a 
prompt nervous character, it will hardly be necessa- 
ry ; but if of a sulky disposition, and unused to 
handling, the above caution is necessary. 

TRAINING TO HARNESS* 

l^ut on your harness carefully, which should be 
thade to fit well, and gi-eat care should be used in 
having it safe and strong in eveiy respect. Do not 
be tempted to drive your colt in an old rotten har- 
ness, or to hitch to an old rotten, rattling wagon, 
as such are liable to give way at any time. Many 
of the accidents causing horses to become subject 
to bad habits, are the results of such imprudence. 
Let every step be made sure. Work safe, and you 
are sure to bring about a good reslilt. With your 
harness on, allow him to stand in his stall until he 
becomes somewhat used to the presence and press- 
ure of the difiierent parts, and will allow you to rat- 
tle them about without his caring for them. Now 
Jead him around for a short time, and as soon as he 
(ippears quiet, check him up loosely, and take down 
tiie reins and diive him around in the yard. When 



HORSE TilAlNINO. 



25 



lie becomes ffuuilin,!* with the harness, check and 
reiTis, and will stop and start at the word, and drive 
around to the right or left, you can drive him about 
tlie streets with safety ; though in making this step, 
.^ou liad better liave yoiir Spanish halter on for 
Safety. You should then drive to sulky. We pre- 
fer a sulky at first. Let your colt see and examine 
every part of the sulky until he cares nothing about 
it, tlien draw it up behind him, rattling and running 
it back and forth a few times, then attach the har- 
ness. Before starting him lead him around a little 
to get him familiar with everything. 

AJS^OTIIER METHOD. 

Put the harness on the colt carefully, and allow 
him to stand in the stall, or run about the yard for 
a half or three quarters of an hour. Then remove 
it, and after awhile replace it again, repeating two 
or three times in this way, until thetjolt is thorough- 
ly reconciled to the harness. Then tie the tugs into 
the breechen, so as to be drawn moderately tight. 
K'ow put on reins and gradually teach him to go 
aheiad and be controlled to tlie right, or left, or to 
sjtop, as you please, by the restraint of the bit. Too 
much should not be expected of the colt at the com- 
mencement of this lesson. First gradually urge 
him ahead by touching the v/hip lightly over the 
hips, and as he moves turn him to the riglit and leftj 
until he will move promptly and turn in any direc- 
tion freely to the control of the reins. Teach him 
to stop and start at will, by urging him ahead by a 
touch of the whip, and stopping him by pulling on 
the reins, being careful to say "get up," and "whoa," 
as each requirement of going ahead or stopping la 



26 IIOKSE TKAIXING. 

i)i;ide, until the colt learns to submit implicitly to 
the control of the reins, and is quite handy to drive 
in this way. This may recmire several lessons of 
half or three Cjuarters of an houi- each. 

DRIVING THE COLT. 

The stilky is preferable at first. Allow him to 
examine it from every position. Should he show 
fear and resistance, use the war bridle, and work 
him up with it until he is perfectly submissable. 
Attach him to the shafts, and for additional safety, 
])Ut on a foot strap, (a description of which find on 
:;not]ier page,) and hold as a tliird rein while driving. 
J-^et the colt move ofi:', on a smooth level road, almost 
entirely as he pleases, at first, and then gradually 
teach liim to submit to the control of the reins. Do 
not diive him too much at first, and never exhaust 
liim After learning to drive nicely, you can then 
let him gradually increase his gait — trotting a few 
rods, and increasing the distance gradually at each 
drive. Be careful not to overdo the vrork, and be 
careful not to overdrive him. A large number of 
colts are spoiled by anxiety to make them fast trot- 
ters before they are grown to full strength. 

DIIIVIXG DOUBLE. 

It is customary to drive the colt at first by the h;ide 
of a gentle horse accustomed to harness. The colt 
t^hould be put on the ofi' side, and to guard against 
danger, a short strap Avitli a ring on it should be put 
around the near fore-foot below the fetlock. Fasten 
the end of a piece of rope or strap of about eight 
or ten feet long to the TUiir. Pass the other end 



I 



ITORSE TRAINING. 27 

over fne belly-bnnd of the harness to the wagon. 
The strap is to be held with the reins to ensure the 
utmost eontrol, shouul the colt become frightene/l 
and attempt to break away or kick. After driving 
well on the off side he should be reversed to tlie 
near side, tliere being less danger of becoming 
frightened from getting into or out of the wagon, 
or of seeing things while being passed to or from 
the wagon on account of being more from view on 
the off side. To lessen the probabilities of fear and 
resistance as much as possible, the off side is pref- 
erable at first. The limited understanding of tlie 
horse seems to require that the same impressiouii 
and underst:inding should be given of the character 
and appearance of things forced to his attention on 
both sides. If not, when driven alone, or on the 
near side, he may become suddenly frightened by 
the moving of a robe, etc., from that side. 

TEACIII2JG THE COLT TO CACK.o 

When the'colt drives well to the reins he should 
be taught to back. This is most easily done with 
the war or bitting bridle. Should he act stubborn 
after using the war bridle a few moments, reverse by 
putting the large loop over the neck, wliich will 
touch him more sharply. If, however, he should be- 
come warm, after a reasonable effort, or a lesson of 
five or ten minutes, stop and repeat the lesson at 
any time after becoming cool and quiet, when, with 
rare exceptions, the colt will learn to go back 
promptly. You can nov/, if the colt is not warm or 
excited, put on reins and learn him to go back by 
being pulled upon from behind. This lesson of 
backing to the reins should be repeated until the 



28 HORSE TKATNING, 

colt is ]">roinptly obedient. He may now be bncked 
to wagon, but first on a sliglitly descending grade, 
gradually requiring more, and repeating the leHson 
until i)rom23t to back under any circumatances. 

RIDING THE COLT. 

Put on a bridle and tie the reins short over the 
neck ; after caressing a little over the l^ack, throw 
yourself lightly upon his back, and gradually work 
into an upright position. But if there is probabili- 
ty of much resistance, attach the end of a strap or 
web to the off fore foot below the fetlock. Take a 
j^hort hold of this over the back ; move the colt to 
the left, and when the foot is raised to step, hold it 
up. This may be done a few times until the foot is 
Bubmitted. Then while holding th<^ foot up by the 
strap w^ith the right hand, rest the left on the mane, 
over the withers, and tlirow youself lightly across 
liis back and work gently into an upright position. 
Then, as may be necessary, move the colt, taking 
and giving the foot until there is perfect subinission.. 

TO MAKE A WAR BRIDLE. 

This is simply a fine threaded cotton cord of the 
best material, twisted hard, of about three-eights of 
an inch in diameter, and twelve or fourteen feet 
long. Tie each end into a hard knot, just as you 
would to prevent its raveling, with the difference of 
putting the end through the tie twice. Then pull 
down tight and hard close to the end. Now tie 
another knot about twenty-four inches from the end. 
Pass the end around the neck, and the knot through 
^he loop, which makes a loop around the neck which 



HOUSE TKATXTNC. 



29 



\y\\\ not slip. Tli(?n doul)le tlie rope througli the 
loop around tlie nock, luiikiiig a slipi)ing" noose; 
put the sli])pnig noose into the mouth. You then 
luive tlie horse in your power, but bepause of thirt 
you must not be too harsh with him. Tlie peculiar 
j)Owerthis means of control eiiables upon the mouth 
is liable to cause accident when used upon a quick, 
sensitive horse or green colt, with too nuich energy 
in sucli a manner as to bring the restraint directly 
back upon the mouth, wdiich would in many cases 
cause the horse to rear up and possibly fall over 
backwards upon the head. The objection to thia 
form of knot is, that it forms so short an angle at 
the point of junction as to catch and prevent the 
cord from sliding back loose the instant slacked 
upon, w^hich w^ould increase the danger of a horse 
going over upon his head when jerked upon in a 
rough, imprudent manner. Of course a horse is 
liable to get killed by such an accident, and must 
and should be gniarded against. But the difficulty 
of making and untying knots that would affiL:>rd 
more freedom for the part passing through, make 
them objectionable. The principal danger is, how- 
ever, from violent jerking too much on a line with 
the body backwards. 

FOOT STn.M\ 

A piece of strap about twelve or fourteen feet 
long will answer on an emergency. But as simply 
tying or knotting around the foot, is objectionable, 
on account of chafing or preventing circulation., or 
possibly untying at some critical moment, we would 
recommend the following : Have a smooth strap 
made, about one foot long and an inch wide, with a 



30 HORSE TRAININO. 

buckle on one end and lioles punched in the other. 
Stitch a ring or D about an nieh from th.e buckle, 
under the lap passing round the buckle. DresH the 
edges of this strap or cover it with smooth leather. 
This strap is designed to buckle around the foot 
below the fetlock. Fasten jour web or long strap 
into this ring or D, 






TO USE FOOT STRAP. 



Buckle the short strap around the near fore foot 
below the fetlock, then pass the long strap oyer the 
belly band on the near side, to the wagon, and hold 
as a rein. This gives control of the foot at will, 
which so disconcerts and disables him as to make 
him comparativelj helpless. Sliould he attempt to 
run away, run back or kick, by pulling upon the 
strap you throw him off his balance and disable him 
from his purpose. This, it is seen, can be re2:)eated 
and followed up at will. The instant the foot is 
taken up, tlie horse is thrown off his balance, and to 
keep from falling he has to tlirow the other foot for- 
ward. There is no danger of the horse falling, and 
you hold him at a disadvantage that renders resist- 
ance almost impossible. If you strap up one of the 
fore legs, the horse cannot travel, and if disposed 
to kick, can balance on the other leg ancl kick, 
which he cannot do when the foot strap is used. 
The foot strap gives you a control over the horse 
which you cannot otherwise obtain, and at the same 
time allows freedom of travel. The short foot strap 
is a piece of web about ten feet long. 



IIOKSE TRAINING. 81 

CAUSES OF FEAR. 

To the excitements and impulses of resistance 
induced by fear, may be attributed, directly or indi- 
rectly nearly all the bad liabits to which horses are 
Btibject. Hence it is of the greatest imi)ortance in 
educating the young hoi'se to guard against any 
cause of excitement th:it Would rouse the mind to 
an extreme sense of danger. Repeated and contin- 
ued success teaches conlidence, while f lilm-e weak- 
ens and destroys strength of purp^ose. The limited 
understanding of the horse indiices great extreme 
of this peculiarity. Hence very susceptible to the 
inilaences of good or bad treatment and almost 
wholly in character, in accordance to the influenced 
made subject. Were we to play upon a di'um quick- 
ly or unexpectedly near a horse unaccustomed to the 
sound or appearance of a drum, it would in almost 
every instance induce the most terrible fear, and if 
successful in gettng away, he would ever afterwards 
I be frightened at the somid or ai)pearance of a drum 
j^ or anything of the kind — the rattle of the wagon, 
or flying of the blanket from his back he would, per- 
haps regard wdth equal alarm, and associating those 
things with the first cause of fear, tliey may become 
objects of equal repugnance and resistance. Kick- 
ing is the horse's principal means of defence. The 
excitement and fear prompts this act. This brings 
his lieels in contact witli the whiifletrees or cross 
piece, Avhich adds to his excitement and fixes the 
iinpression that the object from which he is running 
has hit him. The struggle to escape the danger is 
redoubled both by running and kicking, and thus, 
the horse becomes not only nervous but a kicker, 
■ — ^possibly learns to resist the control of the bit au(i 



32 HORSI<:» TRAINING. 

becomes a liendstrono-, reckless, daiio-eroits nnima1< 
But if the clruni were brought to the notice of the 
horse slowly and gently, allowing him to feel of it 
>vith his nose, then touch it lightly with yom* 
fiiiger, gradually striking liarder as he would bear, 
it would be but a short time before the horse will 
bear the drum being played upon in any manner^ 
even though it were resting upon his back, and he 
w^ould care nothing about it, and be less likely to 
become frightened at the sound or appearance of a 
drum afterwards, but of other objects or sounds of 
a like character. 

We see that when the horse is not given time 
to get a coiTCct understanding of the harmless 
character of the object, or cause of excitement, liis 
sensibilities are liable to be stirred to an anticipa- 
tion of real danger and excite resistance, while 
gentle careful management, is a repetition of con- 
vincing proofs of thic innocent character of causes 
exciting suspicion, until the horse becomes so fear- 
less and confident, as to care nothing about ordi- 
nary causes of excitement and restraint. Now the 
great difficulty with most people is, they are too 
harsh and precipitate. They undeitake to do, and 
requu-e more than they have power to enforce, or 
than the horse is able to understand. 

In educating the colt, the rule should be to do 
and require only So ratich as he mil bear and 
understand, by commencing slowly, and gently 
repeating, and following up one advantage after 
another," to the end of inspiring entire disregarfl 
of cause of excitement. The horse's principal 
sense of understanding, is by seeing and feeling' 
■^vitli the nose. This is his means of examining 
things new and strange to him. If in a^'proacliing 



HORSE TRAINING. SS 

the colt you were to reach out your han-d gently, he 
would Hinell and feel of it with his nose. Eveiy 
otlier means of understanding seems to be subordi- 
nate to this, consequently in handling the colt we 
sliould always commence at the nose, then gradu- 
ally work back as there is submission. The same 
cure should be taken to overcome fear of being 
handled about the feet, &c. Commence at an 
insensible part and work to the sensible. In edu- 
cating to harness the same prudence should be 
exercised by bringing the object to the nose, or 
leading the horse up to the object and allowing 
him to feel and examine it in his own way. 

We must be satisfied with our ability to guard 
against and overcome these difficulties of fear as 
we can, or as circumstances and opportunity will 
oifer. The great point of success is in guarding 
the horse from being roused to a great sense of 
danger from any cause, and gradually as he will 
bear, force the mind to an understanding of the 
innocent character of the object, or cause of excite- 
ment. Familiarity with any kind of danger blunts 
the sensibilities, and the object is to produce this 
result most easily and directly. I regard this care 
and prudence so essential and important in attain- 
ing real success in rendering horses gentle and 
managable, that at the risk of being tedious in my 
explanations, I subjoin details of management in 
reconciling horses to the most common causes of 
fear. 

TO RECONCILE THE COLT TO COMMON CAUSES OP 
FEAR. 

Fii-st, while held under careful restraint, let a 



34 IlOliSE TRAINING. 

robe be brought up gently to tlie colt's nose, Aff-er 
smelling and feeling of it in his own w;iy until y.it- 
is'tied, rub it gently against the head, neck and 
body the way the liair lies, as he will bear. Then 
stand off a little and tlirow it across the back, over 
the neck and head, gradually stepping farther, until 
you can throw the rolje upon and around him as 
you please, though quite distant. 

While holding the colt by the halter or war 
bridle as msiy be necessary, bring an umbrella u|) 
to his nose gently, rub it againt the head, neck and 
body as^ he will bear, then spreading it a little 
repeat the process of rubbing, and so continue^ 
gaining little by little, until you can raise the um- 
brella over the head and pass it around the animal 
as you please, ^vithout exciting resistance. 

To reconcile the colt to the sound of a gun, first 
commence by snapping caps a short distance from 
the horse, gradually as he v/ill bear, api)roaching 
nearer until you can snap cips while tlie gun is 
resting upon the back, over tlie head, &g. Then 
put in a little powder, and at each repetition in- 
crease the charge until you can fire off a heavy 
load without exciting fear. 

To prevent fear of railroad cars, let tlie animal 
see them at rest, then gradually lead or drive him 
up to them, even to smelling them with his nose. 
Now as you have an opportunity drive the horse 
around while they are moving, working up nearer, 
as you can, at the same time turning him around 
so that he can see and hear them from different 
directions. This lesson should be often repeated, 
being careful not to crowd beyond what the colt 
will easily bear, until they cease to attract his seri- 
ous attention. 



nOnSE TRAINING. 35 

■SliOTild tlie horse show fear of a stone or stump, 
or aiiythiiiiz; of the kind, he will naturally stop 
instantly and stare at the object in the most excited 
ninnjier. Should the cause of fear be great and 
sudden, he may attemj^t to turn round and run 
ii\\';iy. Tliis is to be guarded against, by sitting 
well forward on the seat and taking a short hold 
of tiie reins, at the same time speaking c;dinly and 
encouragingly to the horse. Bear in mind tke 
horse lias a great advantage over you, that once 
resisting in this position, he will try to do so again 
at all hazards, under like circumstances. 

Speak encouragingly to the borse, but "keep a 
close watch upon his actions. In a short time the 
tension of his alarm will ,not only be 2)erceptibly 
relieved, but lie will become calmer, and almost 
disregardless of the object. Tlien drive nearer, as 
he will bear, exercising the same patience and care. 
At each eifort to get nearer, the horse will become 
apparently as much frightened as at first, but keep 
pushing a little at a time in this way until you can 
drive up to the object or by it, and you not only 
leave no bad impressions upon the mind, but grad- 
tially overcome the disposition to become frightened. 

Sometimes a horse will dislike a wdieelbarrow, 
baby wagon, turkeys,. <fcc., but the treatment is the 
same. When tlie excitement is not so great as to 
endanger successful resistance, and the horse is dis 
posed to play oif or " soldier ", it may be advisable 
to ajiply the whip a little sharply, but this is to be 
avoided when it is seen the resistance is wholly 
induced by fear, and the animal is not lazy. 

Some horses while driven to carriage, will not 
bear the noise and excitement of other horses being 
driven up behind. This is princi])ally on account 



S6 HORSE TRAINING. 

of the horse^s inability to see and understand the 
cause of the excitement, or it may be owing to the 
fault of the driver. Some one drives up rapidly 
behind, perhaps T\ishes to go by, to prevent which 
the colt is hallooed at and whipped up to prevent 
such a result. This may be repeated a few times 
and the consequence is, if a spirited horse, the 
habit is acquired of rushing ahead to avoid the 
punishment expected under such circumstances, and 
Tery often, too, a horse is forced into this habit by 
being run into from behind. 

THE BLINDERS PREVENT SEEING PLAINLY. 

It must be remembered that the blinders in gen- 
eral use so cover up the eyes as to make it imjjossi- 
ble to see things plainly side wise, and wholly so 
fi'om behind, must tend to this result, and certainly 
we are convinced of this, when we see that to over- 
come the animal's fear of any object, the first and 
most ob\dous point is to induce an understanding 
of its appearance and character. Blinders are ad- 
missable only when there is a desire to conceal the 
defects of a large head, and to cause a naturally 
lazy horse to di'ive steadily, by preventing his abil- 
ity to see when the w^hip is about to be applied. 

The horse must see the object of fear from dif- 
ferent positions, as it is one of his peculiarities to 
\inderstand and be reconciled to an object or cause 
of excitement only from the position and cii'cum- 
stances brought to his notice. This seems to be on 
account of the horse's reasoning powers being so 
limited as to be unable to retain the same under- 
standing of the object beyond the position from 
vhich brought to notice. 



HORSE TRAINING. 



37 



Every progressive change of poBition requires- 
aliiiost the same care aiid patience of that preced- 
ing. For example, if in teaching a horse to be- 
come regardless of an nmbrella, it were shown only 
from the near side, "ripoii carrying it to the off side 
it would inspire nearly as much fear as at first from 
the near side. Or, there may be aversion to some 
particular object, or resistance may be inspired only 
under certain circumstances. You may succeed in 
getting a colt gentle to be rode from the near side^ 
but an attempt to do so from the off side would in 
all probability be resisted. A horse may be afraid 
of an umbrella while in harness and care nothing 
for it out of harness, but if not taught to understand 
its character in harness, would be apt to be as much 
frightened at it in that position, as if he knew noth- 
ing about it. A horse that is afraid of an umbrella 
is brought forward to illustrate the management of 
such habits. In a short time the horse will bear the 
umbrella over and around him in any manner witli- 
out seeming to care anything about it. The owner 
is pleased with the belief that his horse is broken ;. 
but when in harness at some future time, he raiseti 
an umbrella behind the animal and is astonished to 
find him as bad as ever, and he naturally condemns- 
the instruction as of no account. But when it is- 
seen in the first place that it is often necessary^to 
repeat the lesson several times a day, possibly for 
days, to fix an impression of tlie harmless character 
of the object, and in the second place that it is nee- 
essaiy to give the horse the same understanding of 
the object in harness ; that expecting the animal to 
be broken of the habit by a single indirect lesson,. 
only tends to defeat success. For without ability 
to control the hoi'se, every attempt to force upoa 



5d ITORSE TT?AIXTX(1. 

liim tlie olijoct of aversion, only inspires greater re- 
sistance, because taught to a still gi'ea.ter degree to 
3'esist CO itrol, and a sense of freedom always tends 
to increase the anim;d's fear of the object. Tli^e 
^ffoi'ts of the owner to control the liorse directly in 
a position of so great disadvantage, may produce 
exactly this result, and then from an ignorance of 
the cause of failure, it is believed impossible to mak« 
the horse gentle. Ilie main point of success in 
overcoming nervous sensibility, is in the tact of pre- 
venting tJie liorse from becoming friglitened from 
any cause, and v>"hen excited with fear of an object, 
?is circujustances and opportunity will permit, to let 
him see and understand that it is harmless. Let tlie 
object be seen and brought to his notice from dif- 
terent directions, and above all, the lesson nmst be 
repeated day after day, if necessary, so long as the 
animal shows fear of the object, otherwise the efforts 
will be useless, and the hoi'se made more timid and 
unmanaa'able than before. 



THE MANAGEMENT OF OLD IIOESES OF THIS CIIARAC- 
TEIl 

is the same as of colts ; the only difference being m 
the greater restraint often ne-cessaiy to overcome tlie 
extreme resistance a gieat sense of fear may cause. 
A horse excited with great fear of an object may 
not only try with all tlie energy of despair to free 
himself from restraint and get away, but tight most 
wickedly A horse feeling extreme fear is likely at 
any instant to throw all his strength into the con- 
test for freedom, and if held neai- the object, may 
tftrike or kick at it with the recklessness of disi)air. 



I 



HORSE TRAINING. 39 

Tlie control of such should be made as severe a,-* 
possible by the use of the war bridle. 

The horse will be so disconcerted and disabled by 
this that he is unable either to wholly c<jncentrater 
liis attention upon the object, or resist the severe 
restraint upon the ntouth. If an innbrelia, robe, or 
anything of the kind is tlie cause of fear, it can now 
be brouglit gently to his notice, and gradually 
rubbed against his neck, head, and body. Should 
the animal prove to be not oidy extremely nervous, 
tie the head to the tail, same as for balking, and 
keep tlie horse moving until resistance becomes im- 
possible, and Avliile tied force an understanding of 
the object, gradually giving freedom and re;. eating 
the lesson as may be necessary. If a top wagon m 
the cause of fear, get thorough control of the 
mouth with the war bridle, then gradually work the 
horse up to the wagon, j-attling it, &c. Then lead 
him into the shafts, and as he will bear, turning 
him round and backing him into and pulling the 
shafts upon him, raise and lower the top, repeating 
the lesson as may be found necessary. When the 
horse is attached to the wagon, the top should be- 
lowered and the greatest care should be taken to- 
have the harness strong, and every detail of tlie 
hitching perfect, and to guard against possible re- 
sistance or accident, attach a strap to one or each 
of the fore feet, with the ends carried over the 
bellyband back to the wagon and hold with the 
reins. Such a horse it must be remembered if* 
likely to do its utmost to get away, and as it is not 
always possible to control by the reins, the advan- 
tage of controlling by the feet becomes indispen- 
sable. The horse must now be diiven and made 
to submit to control, with the top up or down at 



40 HOltSK TKAINING. 

will, until regardless of it and is perfectly man- 
agable. 

Some horses get into the habit of tm'ning around 
in the road and running headlong in defiance of 
the control of the reins wlieu excited by fear of an 
object or sound. To brake such, get the utmost 
possible control of the mouth with the war bridle, 
and carry out this advantr^ge by keeping the head 
checked high and using a sharp strong bit that 
gives purchase enough to jerk the horse off his 
feet at the least intimation of resistance. Now be 
gentle and prudent in overcoming the fear of the 
iinimal, as explained in other cases if necessary. 

Horses often resist with so much energy in this 
way from a sense of gi'eat fear, or some particular 
object of sound, most commonly that of an engine 
and cars, that all sense of restraint is lost in the 
struggle to get away. To overcome such resist- 
iince, we use what we denominate a 

MECHANIC OR SAFETY SHAFTS, 

made as follows : Get three scantlings or poles of 
good tough timber of about four inches in diame- 
ter, and fourteeu feet in length each. Put down 
two of these, so as to bring them two feet apart at 
one end and thirteen at the other. Now lay the 
other pole across on the ends of the others, widest 
part about six inches from the ends. Mark and 
halve them together. Then bore a hole through 
l^oth pieces at each corner so fitted, and bolt them 
iirmly together. To fix the other ends, get a piece 
of tu-e iron, four feet long, and bend it in the form 
of a breast collar, the rounding side in, so as to 
Lave each end extend back ou the inside of the 



HOUSE TRAINIKO. 41 

poles, ten or twelve inches, and fit up nicely to the 
Avood. Have two holes punched or drilled through 
each end of the iron, by which to bolt it firmly to 
tlie poles. Then drive staples into or near the 
ends. 

To finish the other ends, take two pieces of iron 
about a foot each in length and an inch in diame- 
ter, fiat one end and punch through two holes. 
Work down the other ends to a sharp point ; bend 
down the ends so sharpened about six inches, in 
tlie form of a half circle ; bolt these irons under 
t'le ends of the poles, the sharp ends pointing down 
and back, forming dogs, something like those on 
tlie ends of sleigh runners to prevent the sleigh 
running back. Now harness your horse into this 
aiTangement, taking the precaution to wind the 
irons across the ends with an old piece of cloth and 
strengthening the harness if at all liable to break, 
by tying a piece of rope around with the breechen 
and around the body as may be thought necessary* 
Though the best way perhaps fo hold the — shafts, 
as we will call them, nicely up to the neck, is by 
bringing a strong rope or strap over the neck and 
fastening around the iron near tlie wood. It must 
be remembered that before hitching the horse into 
this, he should be subjected to the most thorough 
training of the mouth with the war bridle, when 
hitched get behind the cross piece holding the reins. 
If the horse now attempts to go back, the iron 
hooks on the ends of the poles settle into the 
ground, making it impossible to do so. Should he 
attempt to turn short around, the pole extends out 
and back from the shoulders at almost right angles 
preventing a movement in that direction. If he 
attempts to rear, the restraint of the breechen be- 



42 nORSE TRAINING. 

comes a lifting lever upon the hind parts and the 
horse is at once disabled. Now drive the horse 
forward to the cars, putting your foot upon the 
cross piece and holding the horse to his position 
when showing fear, to the end of forcing him up 
to the object of fear. 

It n>ust be remembered that a hor!?ie once really 
frightened at an object, as is likely to produce such 
g^-eat and sudden fear as an engine and cars, can 
^Idom, with anything like ordinary effort, be made 
so- regardless of them wlien suddenly and unex 
pectedly moved near him, as to be made at all safe 
for family driving or purposes involving, much re- 
sponsibility when brought into possible proximity 
to theirt. But if the animal is much prized, and 
rendering him safe and gentle much of an object, 
go to work with a will, following up one advantage? 
after another, driving the horse often and perse- 
veringly around near the cars until successful. But 
it must be remembered that fear is the least volun 
tary and least controllable to the reason of the 
feelings, when once really aroused and when the 
nervous system is prostrated by its force and con- 
tinuance, it is the most difficult of all managable 
habits to overcome. There is a limit to the aelvan- 
tages of skillful management in this respect, sjo far 
as absolute success is concerned. It is not possible 
to make a horse of any spirit absolutely fearless, 
and the consideration which should govern an hon- 
est desire to hit the mark best, is to give a coiTect 
understanding of what it is practical to do. My 
advice is, if the horse is really bad, do not trust 
yourself or family behind him. The risk is too 
great to be borne, or advised to be hazarded in 
the hands of most men. 



UOJISE TRAINING. 43 



KICKING IN HARNESS. 



It is very essential, in the first place, that tjie 
mouth is inade a^s lOJijaagable as possible to the .con- 
trol of the bit. All aannianagable mouth is one of 
;the great causes of mischief in many wajs, an4 iu 
none more than in kicking. If there is good con- 
trol of tl\e ;iiouth, so that you can attract aja4 hold 
the hoi-se^s attention and throjv the head up the 
instant there is the least intimation given of kick- 
iiig, by a sharp jerk on the reins, you can in almo>st 
.eveiy instance prevent the developement of this 
intention. Put on the war bridle (small loop), and 
work up the mouth thoroughly. If the horse is 
dull or hard mouthed, change the small loop for 
the large one, or eolt's bridle, which has a inore 
positive and severe effect upon the mouth. Repeat 
the lesson two or three times, or until the mouth is 
anade perfectly managable. Then use a short snalie 
ibit that will enable the ability to retain this advan- 
tage. 

If the horse is young and not very bad or deter- 
mined in the habit, put on the foot strap, having 
the war bridle on. Now work the horse up on the 
floor, tripping and disconcerting as in teaching the 
colt to submit to being touched with straps or any- 
thing else about the legs. Wlien there is submis- 
sion to being touched in this way, hitch to a wagon 
and hold the foot strap as a rein while driving. 
Now trip and disconcert the horse by taking and 
giving the foot at pleasure, and so disabling him at 
each indication of resistance until gentle. This 
training should be thorough, and repeated until 
there is perfect submission. Now check up short 



44 nORSE TRAINING. 

and control and hold the horse from kicking by the 
restraint and control of the bit. If the horse is 
slow and kicks only once in a while, take a rounded 
strap or strong half inch rope about tAVcnty feet in 
length. Place the center of it on the top of the 
head, pass both ends through the rings of the bit, 
then through the gag runners and back through the 
teiTcts. Have a ring fastened to the back strap 
of the breechen, back of the hips, put both cords 
or straps through this ring, pass down on each side 
and tie short enough to the shafts to bring the head 
well up. Everything should be so strong as not 
to endanger breaking. The horse is now nicely 
checked up, with the restraint so connected that at 
the least effort to throw the hind parts up, the reins 
are so pulled upon as to throw the head up in- 
stantly, and the horse is thereby disconcerted and 
disabled from his puii:)ose. A leather strap that 
has been nicely fitted and rounded at least from the 
head to the hips, add to the appearance of the har- 
ness, and shows the apparent intention only of a 
check. If the horse is a reckless determined kick- 
er, more severe and positive measures of restj-aint 
and reproof are necessaiy. Put on the war bridle 
(small loop), and work up shar])ly right and left. 
If the mouth is hard and unyielding, change for 
the large loop, or colt's bridle, and work up three 
or four minutes. Then let the horse reht a few 
hours, and repeat until the mouth is sensitive and 
managable to the bit. Next put on the war bridle 
(small looj^) ; tie a piece of ro})e tightly around the 
body, just back of the shoulders. Put a strong 
and well fitting rope halter on the head ; tie a 
strong two-inch ring on the end of the hitching 
part, which should be of a length to extend be- 



HORSE TRAINING. 



45 



tween the fore legs, over and just back of the belly 
band. Have made two' strong straps with rings in 
them, of a suitable length, to buckle around the 
hind legs above the fetlocks. Now draw^ down 
tiglitly upon tjie war bridle and tie into a half 
hitch. This vfill make the horse stand quietly 
while being handled beliind. Now buckle the 
Btraps around the hind legs above the fetlocks. 
Then take a piece of strong manilla rope, long 
enough to extend from the ring on the end of the 
halter back of the belly band, to each hind foot| 
Pass the end of this through the ring to the center, 
and tie each end carefully into the ring on the 
straps around the hind legs, the whole so arranged 
in length that the horse can travel easily and natu- 
rally. Now untie the w^ar bridle and let the horse 
jump and kick. If necessary restrain and punish 
with the war bi-idle. If the horse is a reckless, de- 
termined kicker, make him kick all he will, theti 
treat him gently. If the horse submits pretty well, 
the straps may be taken oil*, and let him stand 
quietly for a few hours. The folly should never be 
indulged of trying to see if the horse would kick 
after the straps have been taken off. Then put on 
the straps, c^c, as before. If the horse does not 
kick, treat him gently ; if he does, force shar|)ly 
until there is submission. But if the horse is a bad 
kicker, leave the straps on while standing. When 
he will bear being moved around in the yard with- 
out kicking, would hitch to a wagon and drive, 
repeating thoroughly day after day until there is 
no disposition to kick. Then take off the straps, 
and when driving, check up short. The best and 
most natural check for this purpose is made by 
passing the check reins through the rings of the 



46 nOKSE TRAINING. 

bit and fastening to the check pieces of the bridle 
np neai' the ears, or passing up and uniting the 
ends on top the head back of the ears. The gag ■ 
runners ought to be well up near the ear>s, and} 
strong, or use the Jackson form of check, Cheekj ' ' 
ing up the horse in this way, short, wdth the con- 
trol and restraint of the reins, by pulling upon n 
them sha]*])ly at the instant there is an indication I 
of kicking, will now, with great care, enable the 
advantage of keeping the horse from kicking. 

Bad kickers must be handled thoroughly and 
with gi-eat care, to be successful. It is necessary 
in so?u<3 <ias!e.s to l^ave the straps ob a week or two, 
and then the control and reproof upon the mouth 
should he carried out in the most careful and tho- 
rough manner. The mouth is the grand point of 
control in most all cases, and especially in the man- 
agena<ent of the kicker is this essential. The mouth 
should be worked up once in a while with the war 
bridle, to keep it f^ensitiye, and fix upon the mind 
a sense of submission to the restraint of the bit. 

When the horse is very excitable and nervous, 
this is a serious and difficult habit to break up. If 
the training is careless and not made thorough, 
little advantage will be gained in the managenvenit 
of these bad kickers. With the most skilllul 
treatment it is hard enough and, indeed, in many 
instances almost impossible, to make such horse>s 
|jracticailj safe. 



J 



BALKING. 



The management of balkei-s requires the adroit- - 
ness of patience as well as the most convincing I 
powers of control. Neither will it do to excite the * 



HORSE TRAINING. 47 

balker much, excepting under circumstances of 
fiiucli great disadvantage as to make resistance the 
more hopeless. 

If the horse balks in double harness, put on the 
war bridle (small loop), leaving the bridle on. 
Give the horse a few shal*p pulls right and left ; 
now throw the cord over the back ; tie the hair of 
the tail in a hard knot ; part the hair above the 
knot ; pass the bridle rein through ; draw it short, 
and tie into a half hitch. This will bring the hend 
around towards the tail, and cause the horse to go 
around in a circle. The more ])rompt and lively 
the horse, the easier he will move, and the more 
cai'e must be used not to tie so short, or foi'ce round 
BO fast as to cause the horse to become dizzy and 
fall down. If the horse should not move fast 
enough, touch up behind with the whip, regulating 
the efforts so as to keep him moving sharply, but 
not fast enough to fall down. The horse should be 
moved in this way from three to five minutes. As 
soon as the rein is untied from the tail, grab the 
war bridle and jerk upon it right and left five of 
six times. Now let the horse stand for a few hours, 
Repeat the lesson during the afternoon, and once 
or twice during next day. You need not be afraid 
of training the mouth too hard, but not to the ex- 
treme of making it sore. That should be guarded 
against. Now bring tlie part of the cord that goes 
over the neck up to the ears, step a little sideways 
and forward, and give a sharp pull. If the horse 
comes ahead, loosen the cord upon the mouth, and 
caress. Then step a little forward again, and pull 
as before, repeating at slow intervals, always stop- 
ping and caressing for coming ahead. After train- 
ing in this way four or five minutes, let the horse 



48 HORSE TRAINING. 

rest for a few hours, then repeat the lesson, and so 
continue until the horse will eonie ahead proinptly 
when pulled upon. When this end is accomplished 
thoroughly, put on the harnes.s, leaving the war 
bridle on as before, and hitch on the off side. Tie 
a strong piece of coi-d or strap across from one 
hanie ring to the other, between the collars. Now 
get a nice smooth stiff pole of sufiicient length, and 
hiy it between the horses. Fasten the back end 
firmly on top to the end of the true horse's whifiie- 
tree, the forward part resting on the sti'ap between 
the collars at the centre. Bring a piece of rope or 
strap around the pole and fasten into the true 
horse's hame ring, so as to hold the pole from 
being drawn near the balky horse. This will bring 
the pole between the horses, forward of their heads. 
Kow^ fasten the cord to the end of this pole, just 
Hhort enough to pull upon the head when the horse 
does not keep up even with the true horse. Now 
get into the wagon and move the team gently. 
Stop and start them as iimj be necessaiy to make 
the balky horse move up promptly Avhen required ; 
would drive them when connected in this way two, 
three, or four times ; and as the animal becomes 
accustomed to the harness, and disposed to work, 
put on a little loading, gTadually adding more as 
the horse is willing and able to use his strength 
against the collar. 

BALKING IN SINGLE HARNESS. 

Train as before exj^laincd, up to pulling fonvard 
"with the war bridle. Then put on harness, buckle 
the belly band tightly, run the tugs through the 
lings of the breeclien, and tie up shoit. Now drive 



HORSE TRAINING. 49 

the liorse round with reins. If tliere is resistance, 
give a few sharp pulls upon the war bridle and 
touch up with the whip. This lesson should be 
repeated two or three times. Then hitch to wagon, 
being careful to have the harness lit easily and 
loosely. Let the horse move oiF almost as he 
2)leases. Should there be resistance, give a few 
siiarp ])ulls right and left with the war bridle. 
Should this fail, unhitch and swing the horse sharp- 
ly for a few minutes, then hitch up again and move 
olF moderately. 

A balky liorse must be expected to resist, but 
there must be coolness and determination to make 
him yield at this point. Should the horse be per- 
mitted to resist now successfully, all that has been 
done may be considered as lost. Hence the neces- 
sity of working slowly, surely and thoroughly, com- 
mencing back and making every step gained a 
basis for the next, mitil the habit is broken up. 
Should the horse be slow and dull, it is advisable 
to stir him up with the whip. Great and persever- 
ing whipping is not, however, admissable, as the 
horse is thereby roused into an excited condition so 
rapidly that before the acute effect of the whip can 
be made advantageous, the sensibilities become so 
blunted, and the resistance intensified, until the 
hor.se will stand reckless and regardless of the most 
desperate whipping. While the horse is standing 
in the stall, give him a sharp cut or two with a 
whip, around the hind legs, at the same time speak- 
ing sharply " Get up ! " or something of that char- 
acter. Kepeat this two or three times a day for 
two or three days. This will make the horse very 
much afraid of the whip, and cause him to move 
up promptly when commanded. The balky horse 



od TiOKSE Tr;Aixr5:r:. 

should be worked up grndually, carefully, l)ut very 
tlioroughly, enpecially when driven to harness. 
Biit the great consideration in tlie management of 
baikers, is being patient and careful. 

BAD TO STAND. BOLTINGS, ETC. 

This is another form of wilfulness which horses 
of courage and spirit often work into. The horse 
resists the restraint of tlie bit, and rushes aliead 
as soon as hitched ; or rushes up to some favorite 
stopping place ; or it may be termed bad to stand 
while getting into or out of a carriage. Give the 
liorse a few sharp turns, then put on the war bridle 
( small loop ), and jerk upon it right and left six 
or eight times, then let the horse stand a few hours. 
You have two points to gJiin : first, to teach the 
horse to stand ; second, to get such control of the 
mouth as will enable submission to the control of 
the reins. After letting the horse rest awhile, put 
on the war bridle and work uj) sharply as before. 
If the liorse shows temper, and does not yield to 
the action of the cord upon the mouth, change the 
small loop for the large one, or colt's bridle, and 
work upon the mouth with it until it is made sensi- 
tive, and the horse will yield promptly to its re- 
straint. Now take a whip and crack it behind the 
horse a little. Should he move, pull down sharply 
on the cord, and set him back to where he was 
standing, saying " Whoa ". llepeat in this way, 
caressing when there is no resistance, and punish- 
ing when there is, until the horse will stand quietly 
Avhile you crack the whij) around and behind him 
as you please, without his moving. But as you 
wish to make your restraint as convincing as possi- 



IIOKSE TRAINING. 51 

Me, get some one to go beliind the horse and 
frighten hini ahead, and at the least movement set 
him back sliarply, repeating until, the horse will 
stand regardless of any such cause of excitement. 
If the horse is now excited or warm, let him rest 
awliiie. Then put on harness, leaving him to stand 
in tlie stall thirty or forty minutes. Now take him 
on the Hoor with the doors closed, and bring the 
wagon up to him, changing his position, and rat- 
tling the shafts. When this is borne, attach the 
harness to the wagon. Now is the point of deli- 
cacy, hence work slow and careful. Move around 
the head, working back, putting the foot on the 
step, and nUtliug thi3 wagon. If the horse resists 
much, take him out of the shafts and punish him 
sharply. Then hitch to the wagon again, and 
repeat as before. When the horse will stand quiet- 
ly for you to get into the buggy, in the barn, if 
warm and excited, let him rest until eool. Tjieii 
tak^ him into the street, jvhere most apt to resist ; 
bring up the wagon behind, repeating, as in the 
barn, until he will stand as required. Get to his 
head and say, "come boy," gently. Cai^ss him for 
doing as you require, so that he will understand 
what the punishment is for. After going a short 
distance, checking sharply with the war bridle for 
any crowding ahead, stop, at the same time say 
"whoa." Then gradually work back to the buggy; 
then lead him ahead again, stopping and repeating, 
«ach time doing a little more, until the horse will 
stand quietly, Then learn him to move ofi* gently 
while in the wagon, and stop and start when re(|uir- 
ed. To do this well, in most cases, it is necessary 
to repeat the lesson in the street three or four times. 
It is necessary to be very gentle and patient, as well 



52 HORSE TRAINING. 



1 



as positive, with horses of this habit. Tliey are 
usually horses of high nervous susceptibility, easily 
excited. It must always be remembered that after 
taking these fellows in hand they must not be per- 
mitted to resist in any way successfully. If there is 
i\ kind of half way work, make the horse submit a 
little, and then let him resist, your eiforts will only ' 
make the animal worse. If you wish to be success- 
ful in managing horses of any charactei*, you imist 
not yield a point, at any hazard, to the horse, after 
you commence his training. i 

KICKING WHILE GROOMING. I 

Some horses are so sensitive and thin skinned 
that they can scarcely bear a curry comb on the 
flanks or legs, and when excited by rough treatment 
and too severe use of the cmiy comb, are easily 
made vicious to handle or groom. Put on the war 
bridle and work up with it sharply a few times, then 
pull down tight and tie into a half hitch. Now, 
w^hile holding the cord in the left hand, rub with the 
cuny comb on the back or some insensible part, 
gi-adually and lightly, to the sensitive part. Then, 
as there is submission, give a little more freedom to 
the mouth, and work back ^\^th the curry comb as 
before, being veiy careful to iise it lightly. When 
there is submission to this, untie the cord and work 
back as before. If there is resistance, tremble a 
little on the cord, working lightly. If the hone 
seems unable to bear the curry comb, use the brush 
instead, lightly, if necessary. Put on the cord, and 
keep the horse, if necessary, reminded of your con- 
trol, at the least intimation of resistance, by giving 
a few sharp pulls, or trembling on it for four or five 



IIOKSE TKAINIXG. 53 

times rn'oomlnor, Greut care must be taken not to 
allow excitement or harshness with such horses. 
When the horse cringes ease up instantly, speaking 
gently to him, but never scream " whoa," and dig 
him Avith the curry comb. AVork lightly and indi- 
rectly to the foot, holding attention by speaking 
gently. 

KICKIXa IN STALL. 

Train with the war biidle until the horse responds 
promptly to its restraint. Tie a knot in the cord 
about twelve inches or more from the end, and be- 
fore dravring it tiglit put the end through the ring 
of the halter, through the mouth outward, through 
the ring on the otlier side, back and through the tie 
previously made. This forms the common small 
loop, but a little larger than common, and running 
through the rings of the halter, so that it cannot 
drop out of the mouth. Kow bring the other end 
over the neck and put it doA^m through the looj) 
Tie the liorse by tlie halter in a wide stall, retain 
the cord in the hand when passing out, and tie the 
end on the side of the stall, le.'iving the cord long 
enough to give the horse the freedom of the halter 
When it is desired to go up to tlie horse in the stall, 
take the cord in the hand, say "Get around, sir." 
If the horse does not obey, and shows an intention 
to kick, give a sharp pull on the cord, Avhich Avill 
make him get around to the o])posite side of the 
stall. Step up to the head, speaking gently. Keep 
the cord on in this way for a few days, and when 
going into the stall, if the horse does not step 
around to the opposite side when commanded, give a 
sharp j^ull upon the cord, which will force him to do 



54 IKJliSE TKAINIXG. 

SO. Be pnrtifular in attracting tlie attention of tlie 
li jrse before attempting to go into tiie stall, by say- 
}\g "Get around, sir," in a linn, positive manner. j I 
There must be no intimation in action or language:, 
or* fear, at the same time judging by the exjiression 
of the eyes and action of the ears, the iuteulion of 
the horse. Glide in quickly, holding attention hy 
saying something, and looking at the eyes. This 
adroitness of catching and holding the attention 
disconcerts and holds the horse from his purpose 
The most gentle horses are liable to kick if ap 
proached and touched beliind while in stall, witli- 
out an intimation of warning. ]My horse, though 
perfectly safe and gentle to liaadle if spoken to, 
would be very likely to kick at any one approaching 
;m<i touching him behind unexpectedly. Biters, 
iiitrikers and cro^^'ders in stall ai-e managed by the 
jsanie princij)le of control. 

KICKING AND STRIKING WHILE SHOEING. 

Some horses have a peculiar aversion to having 
the feet handled, and if once roused to resistance, 
from any cause, are apt to become pretty deter 
jnined in the habit. If the foot is pulled away 
Avhen taken up, or the horse is excited and injured 
in some Avay, while the foot is held, the fear of 
injury is produced and associated vrith the require- 
ment, which by the usual pulling, hauling and kick- 
ing practices of the shop, makes the horse worse. 
The least intimation of ability to resist after being 
taken in hand, always inspires the horse to renewed 
confidence and resistance, and if there is not abil- 
ity or perseverance enough to enforce the end of 
perfect submission, after trying to do so, the horse 



IIORSK TRAINIXG. 55 

is only ninde worse, more reckless nnd (leterin'med 
in tiie lia])it. As tlie ol)ject is to break np tlie 
h;il)it. the enero-ies must be concentrated as directly 
ajid forcibly as possible, until the horse is so dis- 
concerted and shaken in the confidence of liis pow 
ers of resistance, as to yield to restraiiit and submit 
the feet .as required, Mdien the submission must be 
made permanent by patient, o-entle treatment. The 
treatment liere o-iven applies to the worst cases 
thouo^h we liave found it necessary in some in- 
stances to re>^ort to more severe ti-eatment, })ut the 
exceptions are so rare, requiring the extreme of 
force, and may be the cause of accident to othersy 
that we do not deem it advisable to pfive more than; 
we would believe most practical, with rare excep- 
tions. If the horse kicks and resists having the 
hind feet shod, put oh the war bridle, leaving the 
bridle or halter on. Take a firm hold of thelstrap 
or rein, about six or eight inches from the head, 
gi-ab the hair of the tail and swing the horse sharply 
foui- or five times around. This will make the horse 
dizzy. Pull tlie cord riglit and left a few times as 
quickly and energeticly as possible. Then tie the 
end of the long strap around the neck, near the 
shoulders, in the form of a running noose; pass the 
I other end back between the fore legs, around the 
hind leg, below the fetlock and back through the 
jloo]i around the neck, drawing it through^ short 
jenough to bring the foot well' forward. Pass the 
lend back under to prevent sliding, and retain in the 
jliand. The horse will now be very likely to strug 
jgle to get the foot loose. Should his resistance be 
so gi-eat as to endanger injury, you can give loose 
on the end of the strap. When the horse ceases 
trying to get his foot loose, rest the left hand upon 



6Q HORSE TRAINING. 

the liip, with the right pull upon the foot forwai'd 
and outward. If there is great resistance, pull the 
horse around by the head, vvdiich v\-lll enable you to 
keep him in pro])er limits. When the struggle 
ceases, go back and handle as before. When the 
foot is submitted to the h;nid, wliile held to the re- 
straint of the strap, put the cord well back upDnthe 
neck, draw it down tightly, and tie into a half hitch. 
Then pull upon the foot with the hand as iiefore. 
If not resisted, untie the strap and take the foot in 
the hand gently. Put it down and take it up, rub- 
bing and handling until there is entire submission. 
Then cany it back Avith the right hand, keeping 
Avell forward out of danger, by resting the left hand 
upon the hip, and pulling and yielding to the foot 
until managable. Now pass the left hhnd down to 
the inside of the leg, and take it adroitly from tlie 
right and carry it back gently ; put it down and 
take it up once or twice. Then hammer upon it 
lightly, gT.\dually increasing until the foot is sub- 
mitted as required. Untie the cord and tie it a 
little longer, and handle the foot as before. If 
there is an intimation of resistance, tremble on the 
cord, which will call attention to the mouth, and 
remind of previous control until the foot is submit- 
ted without restraint. Manage the other hind foot 
in the same way. Handle the horse in this way 
three or four times, with the difference of lessening 
the severity of force as there is submission, until the 
feet can be handled without resistance or fear. 

Tlie cord must not be kept tied down longer than 
two or three minutes at any one time, as the press- 
ure is usually so great as to prevent circulation. 

When of an extreme character, train with the 
war bridle thoroughly while the leg is tied up. 



(! 



HOESE TUAIXTNG. 57 



RUNNING AWAY 

Is the result of a sense of freedom and want of 
control of the mouth. The horse throws the mo- 
mentum of his strength against the bit, and if suc- 
cessful in resisting control, the habit is induced. 
It is true the resistance may be caused by the ani- 
mal becoming frightened, but this only points to 
the principal cause of weakness : the feeble control 
there is over the mouth. Train with the war bridle 
( small loop ) four or five times. If the mouth is 
very unmanagable, change for the large loop, and 
work back u])on the mouth with it pretty thorough- 
ly. This lesson must be repeated until the mouth 
is sensitive and managable to the bit. Then hitch 
the horse single, using a small steel snafflle bit, and 
having on the foot strap, move the horse gently. 
After .^01 ng a few rods, pull on the foot strap, say- 
ing "Whoa". Trip, and stop the horse in this way 
a few times, by way of feeling of him. Then 
move him off sharply, and jerk upon the reins, 
saying "Whoa" in an excited manner. Repeat in 
this way, making the horse go slow or fast, and 
making him stop at will. You are now in a posi- 
j tion to learn your exact conti'ol of the mouth. If 
j there is prompt and unconditional submission to 
I the control of the bit, you can trust to the reins. 
I If not, that point must be attained by greater ad- 
vantage on the bit. Take two straps, each about a 
foot in length, with a buckle on one end and a ring 
on the other. Run the buckle ends through the 
rings of the bit, and buckle on over the check pie- 
ces of the headstall, or the check pieces may be 
taken out, and these pieces put in place of them. 



58 HORSE TRAINING. 

When arranged in this way, the rings must be so 
large as not to go through the ring of the bit. 
Fasten the reins to the rings on the straps. As the 
lines are pulled upon, now the bit is forced up in 
the mouth, which will gi-eatly disconcert and disa- 
ble the horse from his purpose. Now drive as 
before,, stopping and starting at will. If there is 
decided wilfulness, or a determination in the horse 
to resist control, be decided and positive. I have 
had instances of such horses trying to run away in 
defiance of the control of the foot strap. If this 
temper is anticipated, put a strap on each forward 
foot at first, then if there is an attempt to rush 1 
ahead when the foot is drawn up, pull on the other, f 
Avhich will stop him at once. Care should be taken 
when this is found to be necessaiy, to select a sandy 
or sodded piece of road, to prevent having the 
knees injured. Now drive the horse fjist or slow, 
as you please, and repeat, stopping him at will, 
until promptly obedient to the control of the reins. 

If the horse runs away from fear of some object 
or cause of excitement, drive around and near such, 
stopping and starting the horse, until there is will- 
ingness to submit to restraint and look at things » 
without attempting to get away. Remember, also, I 
the slower the horse is moved, the less liable he is 
to become frightened, and the easier to control his 
actions. 

The mouth should be kept thoroughly managa- 
ble by a sharp lesson with the war bridle two or 
three times a week, for a month or two. 

If the horse runs away in double harness, work i 
with the war bridle, as before explained, and drive f 
with the foot strap, and repeatedly, until there is 
submission to the control of the mouth. The main 



n-ORSE TRAINING. 59 

thing is, to get such control oyer the mouth as will 
insure ability to control the actions of the horse by 
the bit This is the ultimate object, and must be 
aimed for from the first. 

It is tlie worst of folly to hazard life and proper- 
ty behind a horse that has once run away, until 
thorouglily broken of the disposition to resist. If 
the horse is old and determined, the training must 
be made very thorough, and repeated until there is 
certainty of control with the reins under any cir- 
cumstances of excitement. Short of this, the horse 
cannot be driven with safety, and had better be put 
off, or used for pm-poses not involving danger. 

It is very remarkable what a powerful effect 
training will have on the mouth, and how strangely 
Btubborn and unmanagable a horse may become 
after once learning to resist the restraint and con- 
trol of the bit. 

A strong, high4empered horse, once nerved to 
the contest of resistance in this way, is not by any 
means to be regarded lightly, or easily controlled. 
The greatest care should be taken to have the har- 
ness and wagon used, safe and strong. The contest 
may be desperate, and it is part of your strength to 
provide against accident. 

A very good way, although not so practical, to 
manage a desperate horse, is as follows : Have a 
little ring or loop attached to the head piece of the 
bridle, just back of each ear. Provide yourself 
with a strong cord, pass one end through the near 
loop from the top side, pass down under the throat 
up through the loop on the opposite side, and tie 
into the "other part back of the head. The cord 
now forms a loop that draws directly upon the 
throat when pulled upon from the wagon, when 



^ HOKSE TRAINTMG. 

the other end is intended to be held, with the reins ,^ 
in your hand. When the horse attempts to mn, 
you can instantly with the greatest ease, prevent 
his breathing, and he must stop or soon fall down 
from exhaustion. This is a terrible means of re- 
straint and punishment, and is pardonable only 
when the horse is so desperately reckless as to resist 
other means. 

TURNING AROUND WHILE DPJTING. 



This is a serious and dangerous habit. The lim- 
ited advantages it is possible to exercise over the i 
mouth sideways while driving, makes it difficult to ■ 
control the resistance of a determined, reckless 
horse, when once excited to opposition in this w^ay. 
The horse is usually excited to resistance by being 
frightened in some way, and when there is, it is 
most always without warning, and with all the en- 
ergy of despair. Without a sense of ability to con- 
trol the mouth in the most thorough and convincing 
manner, it will be impossible to break up this habit. 
It is easy enough to j^revent the horse turning 
around by other means, but there is so little disposi 
tion to use anything requiring any trouble to obtain 
or use, that they are not practical. Get the great- , 
est possible control of the mouth with the war i 
bridle ( small loop ). To do this well may reqiiire 
three or four thorough lessons. If there is not 
ability to control the horse with ease by the ordi- • 
nary form of power bits, use one made as follows : ' 
Let the mouth pieces of the sim])le snaffle form 
extend out two inches from w^here the rings for the 
reins are, Avith rings on the ends. Now attach a 
strong^ double strap ai'ound the nose, from one in- 



HORSi: TRAIKTNa. 61 

side rins: to the other, quite short, but not tight. 
Buckle the reins into the rings on the ends. When 
the reins are pulled upon now, the joint in the cen- 
ter is thrown forward against the roof of the mouth, 
the strap around the nose being the fulcrum, while 
the gi-eat length of mouth piece outward, from 
where the strap is fastened, gives all the advantage 
of power necessaiy. It would be better, perhaps, 
by liaving two joints at the center, about an inch 
apart. The power over the mouth by a bit of this 
form if properly made and fitted, is veiy great. It 
gives the power needed to bring the head sideways. 
Associated with this habit is usually that of 

RUNNING BACK. 

To break up this habit, there must be established 
a thorough fear of the whip, so as to induce going 
ahead whenever commanded. Put on harness and 
tie the tugs into the rings of the breechen rather 
short. Now drive around with the reins, giving a 
Bhai-p cut with a good bow whijD around the legs, 
once in a while, if not prompt. As the horse learns 
to spring ahead when commanded, pull a little on 
the lines, gradually repeating, until he will pull 
quite hard on the bit to go ahead. Make this as 
thorough as possible. In driving, repeat, and cany 
out this, going ahead promptly, whipping up sharp- 
ly once in a while if necessary. This purpose can 
be carried out with more certainty in driving, if the 
foot strap is used. 

Persevere until the horse is made managable un- 
der the most exciting circumstances. If the ani- 
mal is really reckless and dangerous, the mechanic 
or safety shafts can be used. 



6? 



HORSE TRAINING. 



rULUNO HARD ON THE BIT. 



If the horse is of a moderate character, the r^ 
•sistance proceeds from a want of sensibility in tlie 
mouth. Work the mouth up with the war bridh 
(hirge -loop) until made sensitive and thoroughlyl 
submissive to restraint. Use a wire snaffle bit: 
the object now is to keep the mouth sensitive to 
restraint. Whenever there is a disposition to pull 
a little too hard, give a short raking pull on the 
lines, repeating as may be necessaij. Repeat the 
lesson of working up with the w^ar bridle three or 
four times, to lix the impression of submission to 
restraint. As there is now a disposition to pull too 
hard while driving, give a quick raking pull on the| | 
jeins, which will soon break up the habit. If the 
tiorse is sensitive and energetic, establish if possi- 
"fcle a feeling of submission to restraint bj careful 
iand thorough training with the war bridle, botl 
f^mall and large loops. Use a small snaffle bit 
;and at each eftbit to rush ahead, give a shaip sid( 
■pull right and left on the lines, as before explained, 
giving loose immediately, and so repeating at each 
^efibit to pull ahead, being careful not to show anje 
-excitement. The horse will soon learn to avoid the 
pain of these raking pulls, by going slower. By 
being patient and persevering in reproving and 
forcing obedience to control, whenever there is an 
impulse of resistance, with rare exceptions, the 
horse will soon learn to yield readily to the most 
gentle control of the rein. If the horse resists this 
treatment, drive with the purchase strap, as ex- 
plained for the control of runaway horses. 



MORSE TEAINING. 63 



"VVILL NOT BACK. 



Put on the war bridle (large loop), step in front 
of the horse, and press back upon the bridle quietly.- 
If the horse goes back a little, caress ; if not, after 
a short interval, press a little harder, being careful 
not to be too hurried or excited, as by too great an 
effort to force at first, the horse is apt to become so 
greatly excited, and the sensibility of the month in 
consequence, so soon blunted, that the horse could 
be scarcely made to yield to very severe training. 
Continue at slow intervals, repeating the pulls upon 
the mouth, caressing and speaking encouragingly 
lor the least effort to go back, but making the pow- 
er of the bridle felt. Some horses do not seem to 
know how to back, or are so dull and sulky as to 
resist all ordinary effort. When the resistance ]> 
of this character, throw the short w^eb over the 
back, and tie the end to the off fore foot. Pull the 
foot up with, this web, then let it doAvn gi'adually, 
and while doing so, press back gently upon the 
bridle. Holding the foot and letting it doAvn in 
this way, brings it down back of the other, whicb 
weakens the resistance, and by a little effort, will 
induce the horse to move the other feet to an equal 
distance to regain his balance. Repeat this, tmtil 
the horse will move back quite easily ; then follow 
up the advantage by the control of the bridle, or 
get an assistant to attach a web or cord to the foot, 
and get behind the horse and pull the foot back,- 
when yon can press as before gently upon tie* 
bridle. To work easily and thoroughly, it is best 
to stop as soon as the horse becomes much excited 
or sulky, for an hour or two ; then repeat. When 



64 nOESE TEAINING. 

the horse will go back as requii-ed, then back while 
hitched to wagon, fiisfc a little down hill, then on a 
level, gradually in posidons requirmg more strength. 
Work gi-adually, but thoroughly, giving the horse 
time to understand what is required, thus gi"adually 
pressing him to do more, until he has learned and 
is willing to use his strength in this way. 



PULLING ON THE HALTEK. 

Tie a piece of rope around the body, back of the 
shoulders, in the form of a guth ; put on a strong 
rope halter, with the hitching part about ten feet 
in length. Lead the horse into his stall, and quiet 
ly i^ass the hitching part through the ring or hole 
in the manger, and pass it back between "the fore- 
legs over the girth, and tie around the hind leg, 
above the fetlock, long enough to enable the horse 
to go back fom- or rive feet, before feeling restraint. 
When all is ready, strike upon the rope, fifteen or 
twenty inches from the head, with a pole in an ex- 
cited manner. The instant the horse settles back 
to pull, the restraint comes equally upon the hind 
foot, which will so disable and disconcert him, that 
after a hard pull or two, he will jump ahead. If 
the horse is of a slow determined character, force 
back with energy. The instant the horse comes 
ahead, stop and caress. Then push him back by 
the halter, and at each repetition of settling back 
to a pull, make him pull as hard as possible. ^ 

This lesson must be repeated so long as there is | 
the least disposition to pull. Hitch in" the stall in 
this way for a few days, and as may be necessary 
to hitch in other places, attach to the fore leg above 



HOUSE TRAINING. 65 

the knee. The horse shoukl be hitched in this way 
until there is certainty of his not pulling. 

Almost any way of bringing the restraint upon 
the hind parts, if carried out with energy and pru- 
dence, will enable the changing of this habit. The 
halter can be attached to the hair of the tail, a 
piece of rope brought under the tail in the form of 
a crouper, tied together over the back, then brought 
forward on each side of the shoulders, and fui^tened 
to the end of the hitching part of the halter, would 
be perhaps a better way of doing this. When the 
horse is of a moderate determined character, the 
great point of success is in fi-ightening and forcing 
back with energy, when hitched. Colts of a san- 
guine temperament, not accustomed to much re- 
straint, are by far more reckless and determined 
than old horses. While they yield more readily 
than the old horse, they are more reckless at first, 
and would be apt to pull themselves down. Whip- 
ping and frightening the old horse with energy at 
the instant of his pulling, prevents this ; but the 
colt is not likely to respond to the force of any ex- 
citement. He seems to lose all consciousness of 
feeling in his strong desperation, and you would be 
defeated. 

Instead of tying the hitching part to the leg, 
bring round the leg and retain in the baud. Now 
if the horse pulls too recklessly, give loose on the 
halter, then lead him up again and repeat, until the 
resistance is so weakened that the halter can be 
attached to the foot with safety. It is always best 
to weaken the disposition in the colt to pull, by 
training with the war bridle, until there is prompt 
obedience to its restraint, when pulled upon ahead, 
as for bridle pulling. 



6d nORSE TRAINING* 



PULLING ON THE BRIDLE^ 



n 



Put on the war bridle, then step a little forward 
and .sideways and give a quick energetic pull on 
the cord. In a few seconds, give another sharp 
pull, repeating at slow intervals, until the horse 
comes ahead a little. Immediately loosen the cord, 
and caress. Then repeat the pull and so continue 
for four or five minutes, when the horse should be 
allowed to lest an hour or two, and again repeat 
the lesson until the horse will come ahead promptly 
when pulled upon. 

Now lun the cord through the ring of the hitch- 
ing post, having the horse stand tln-ee or four feet 
sideways from it, and give him a sharp pull. Should 
he come up to the post promptly, loosen the cord 
npon the head and caress ; if not, repeat pulling 
until he does. When the horse comes up promptly 
get some one to frighten him back. Should he 
l^ull, hold against him until he comes up again and 
so repeat. It may be necessary to repeat this les- 
son two or three times to break np the habit tho- 
roughly. Make the lesson of leading ahead veiy 
thorough. If the horse does not lead well, put the 
cord down on the neck and pull sideways, right 
and left, a few minutes, then bring the coid up to 
the ears and j^ull ahead until there is prompt obedi- 
ence to the least restraint upon the halter. 

PULLING ON ONE REIN. 

Put on the war bridle ( small loop ) and pull in 
the opposite way, until the horse will come round 
promptly. Make this thorough by training two or 



nORSE TRAINING. 67 

tln-ee times. Use a small snafle bit and at the least 
iiitiniatioii of resistance, pull on the line two or 
three times sharply. If the hortse does not yield to 
this, i:>ut on the war bridle and give a few sharp 
side pulls as befoi'e. When the horse is roused to 
resistance, after there is an effort to change the hab 
it, th<e training nnist be continued until there is un- 
conditional submission. 

BAD TO BKII>LE. 

Put on the war bridle (small loop,) pull right and 
left a few times and tie down short. Handle the 
head quietly, rubbing the way the hair lies, gi'adu- 
ally working up to the ears. As there is submission 
tie the cord a little longer. Then hold the cord in 
the hand, while the other is passed over the neck ; 
as this is done, press down a little with the hand 
over the neck and head and pull gently, with the 
other on the cord, when the head is yielded in the 
least, ease on the cord and caress and so repeat 
until the head can be handled freely. Tie down 
short enough to prevent the head being thrown up. 
Take the bridle in the risrht, brinu; it over the head 
and neck gently; with the left hold the bit lightly 
between the fingers. Press down with the right to 
hold the head steady, while the bit is being worked 
into the mouth gently with the left. If the horse 
dose not open his mouth freely for the bit, press the 
lower lip against the teeth with the fingers, which 
will cause him to do so readily. Now gradually 
reduce the restraint, until the bridle can be put on 
easily without being tied. If the horse runs back 
and strikes, back him into a stall, put on the girth, 
press the cord beween the legs over the girth back 



68 UOPSE TRAIXING. ■ 

to the head and tie into the part around the jaw. 
Now put on the bridle gently. It requires much 
firmness and prudence to manage horses of this 
character well. They are usually excitable, and 
however severe tlie restraint at first, it must be re- 
moved and the fear or disposition to resist, over- 
come, until the head can be handled and submitted 
as required. If the horse is disposed to resist the 
bit and it is simply desired to put on the bridle, 
pass the right hand under the neck around the nose 
and hold it firmly, while the bit is put into the 
mouth with the left, then bring the head part up 
gently and put it over the ears. If there is much 
resistance at any time, it ought to be immediately 
controlled by the restraint of the bridle. 

BAD BITERS, 

An old bad horse of this character, cannot be 
mude reliably gentle, by the most thorough train 
ing. The least want of watchfulness, seems to be 
forever encouraging the horse to satisfy his pro- 
pensity, and however thorough the training, if 
there is not watchfulness, the horse will be contin- 
ually encouraged to break over and persevere in 
the habit. The main point of success is to fix and 
hold the horse's attention. Work up thoroughly 
with the war bridle, then reprove sharply for the 
least attempt to bite. Let the actions and lan- 
guage indicate confidence and power. In ap- 
proaching the head, look at the eye and speak 
sternly, saying " Take care, sir," or something of 
llie kind. If the eye is roguish and the ears are 
thrown back, bring the hand well up on the head, 
theji down to the nose piece of the halter and gi*ab 



nORSE TRAINING. 69 

firmly where the check piece in attached. If there 
is an attempt to bite now, the hand is carried up 
with tlie head, and is held out of reach of the 
mouth. If the horse is not very old, with thorough 
training and good manngenient the habit can be 
held in check, and possibly broken up ; but an old 
bad horse of this character cannot be made safe. 
So long as there remains a desire to resist, the 
horse cannot be regarded as broken. The inten- 
tion is most always held latent, liable to be devel- 
oped at the least indication of weakness, and if the 
horse is allowed to bite in a determined manner, 
without instant and positive reproof, training will 
do but little good, and in fact the horse is liable to 
become worse by the experiment. 

PAWING IN STALL. 

Get a piece of chain about ten inches in length, 
run a short strap through one of the end links and 
buckle it around the foot above the fetlock, or a 
piece of light chain can be fastened to a small 
block and attach it to the foot in the same manner. 
"VVhen the horse attempts to paw, the clog or chain 
rattles against the foot and prevents a repetition of 
the 2)ractice. 

CRIBBING. 

The act of cribbing induces a peculiar contrao- 
tion of the muscles of the neck, — the larnyx is 
forced down much beyond its natural position. 
This enlargement of the neck, while biting or 
sucking wind, enables us easily to prevent and cure 
this liabit. 



70 HOUSE TKAINING. 

Have tlie thront latch of the halter made of nice 
stilf leather, and fitted neatly to tlie throat. Take 
a piece of a strap about five inches long and the 
f<aine width of the throat-latch. Drive eight ouncel 
tacks in a row thi-ough the centei*. about three-eighth sf 
of an inch apart. File the ends to an equal lengtli) 
and very sharp. Lay this strap on the inside of| 
tlie tln-oat-hitcli, on the part coining directly underj 
the throat. Wind a waxed end around the centei4 
and the throat latch and knot firmly and tie the! 
ends down in the same manner. This brings a row' 
of sharp points across the throat when the throat- 
latch is« buckled up, if properly adjusted and fitted, 
that will stick into the neck at the least effort to 
crib, but does not interfere in the least during thei 
ordinary process of eating and drinking. The? 
throat-latch of the bridle must be armed in the 
same manner, so that the horse is not at liberty to 
crib under any circumstances. If the horse in 
young, and the liabit is not of long continuance, 
there is but little doubt of being able to break it 
lip with ordinary effort and care ; and if it should 
not break the old horse of long experience in the 
habit, it can be relied on as a sure preventative. 
I would keep every young horse subject to this! 
means of reproof for at least from one to three 
months. Much will depend upon getting the points 
of the tacks even and sharp and everything fitted 
nicely. The throat-latch must not be so tight as to 
cause the points of the tacks to touch the neck 
"when the horse is eating or drinking, or so loose as 
not to touch sharply when there is an eftbrt to crib. 
This habit can sometimes be cured instantly by 
holding a bottle of spirits of amonia in the hand, 
with the thumb held firmly over the mouth, so hold- 



HORSE TRAINING. 71 

ing it that the instant the liorse cribs, by raising 
the thumb tlie amonia will be inhaled through the 
nose. The shock to the nerves, when inhaled in 
this way, is sometimes so great as to cause the 
liorse to fall down as if shot, and will often produce 
so ]>owerful an impression upon the mind as to cure 
the habit. 

GETTING CAST IN STALL. 

Drive a staple into a beam, or the floor directly 
over the horse's head as he stands in the stall, to 
which attach a strap or piece of small rope of suffi 
cient length to extend to within fifteen inches of 
the floor. Before retiring for the night, attach the 
other end of the cord or strap to the top of the 
halter, making it just long enough to allow the 
horse to put his nose to the floor. Being now una- 
ble to get the top of his head to the floor, he is 
prevented from rolling. 

PUTTING THE TONGUE OUT OF THE MOUTH. 

Make a bit of a straight, square piece of bai' 
U'on ; make little nicks in the middle of one of the 
corners of the bit. Put the nick side np, and when 
the horse runs his tongue over the bit the nicks will 
scratch it, and cause him to keep it in its place. 

TO KEEP A HORSE FROM JU3IPING FENCES. 

Put on a strong girth or rope around the horse's? 
body. Fasten a ring to the girth, on each side of 
it, about midway up. Run a small rope through 
each ring, long enough to reach from the near fore 



*72 HORSE TRAININa. 

foot through the ring, and back to the near hind \ 
foot. Have straps buckled around the legs below ? 
the fetlock. Tie the rope in the straps. Fasten ' 
the legs on the off side in the same manner. Have 
the head free from everything. Put him in a small 
yard prepared purposely. Go in with yom- whip 
and make him try to jump out, and when he raises 
up to jump he is set over backwards. Continue 
making him try to jump. He will soon face the 
whip instead of the fence. He gets the idea that 
the fence knocks him down. 

ktjNniKg in pasture* 

Put on the horse a nicely-fitting old five-ring 
halter ; get a piece of thin leather irom twelve to 
fourteen inches square (an old boot leg cut open 
is best) ; cut a hole in each corner of this leather. 
Now tie two corners up to the check piece of the^ 
halter, near the ears, with a couple of strings ; tie 
the other corners to the check pieces below the 
eyes in the same manner. This brings the leather 
in front of the eyes with its corners so drawn back, 
above and below, as to prevent the horse looking 
forward above or below the eyes, though free to see 
in any other direction. He will not trot nor run, 
and is in consequence afraid to do so. 

BREAKING UP WHILE TROTTING. 

If the horse cannot be held down to his gait 
when forced on the trot, jiut on a light web halter. 
Have fitted a nice strong strap, long enough to ex- 
tend from the jaw to the belly band of the harness, 
one end arraiiired with a buckle so as to enable 



HORSE TRAINING. 'JT^ 

taking up or letting out, to fit, with a two inch ring 
stitched into the other end ; attach this to the halter, 
back of the jaw ; run the other end back between the 
legs, over and just back of the belly-band. Buckle 
two nicely fitting straps with rings in them, around the 
hind legs above the fetlocks. Take a strong piece of 
half inch rope and run it through the ring on the end 
of the halter strap, and tie the ends into the rings in 
the straps around the hind feet, regulating the length 
so as to enable the horse to move easily and naturally, 
but not longer. The horse is now free to trot, but the 
instant he attempts to run, the connection between the 
feet and head is shortened and the head is pulled back 
to a corresponding degree with the feet. The horse 
will soon learn this, and fear the effect of breaking so 
much as to hold to the trot at all hazards. 

TO ADD STYLE. 

Put on the war bridle, step in front, holding the cord 
in the right hand, give a slight pull. The horse will 
usually throw his head up, as the effect of the restraint 
is back and upwards, but if the nose is given back 
toward the breast, reverse the pull by throwing the 
hand up. If the nose is thrown out, pull down and 
back steadily, but firmly. As the horse yields, give 
loose and caress, repeating until the mouth is given 
back promptly. 



SHOEING, 



The system of shoeing now in general use is to fit a 
simple flat piece of iron, with or without corks, to the 
form of the foot and nailed firmly to the wall of the 
hoof. If this is done so as to restrict the natural free- 
dom of the crust, or in any way induce an unnatural 
condition that will cause irritation and injury of the 
laminae, or fleshy substance, connecting and between 
the hoof and the coffin bone, a diseased condition is 
produced that results, in a greater or less degree, in 
some one or more of the common causes of malforma- 
tion and lameness to which horses are subject. The 
principal causes of mischief from shoeing, directly or 
indirectly, are : First, lack of judgment, prudence in 
paring the hoof so as to simply bring it back to its 
natural condition. Second, in fitting the shoe so as to 
bring the bearing evenly and naturally on the rim of 
the hoof only, and nailing it on so as to interfere as 
little as possible with the freedom and enlargement of 
the hoof as it grows. And, third, in permitting the 
hoof to become dry and hard. In its natural state the 
foot will be found to be almost round, and very elastic 
at the heels ; the frog broad, plump, and of a yielding 
character; the commissures open and well defined, 
and the sole concave. The outside of the crust from 
the heel to the toe, increased from a slight level to an 
angle of about forty-five degrees, consequently, as the 
hoof grows, it becomes wider and longer in proportion 



HORSE TRAINING, 75 

to the degree horn is secreted, and narrower and short- 
er in proportion to the degree that horn is cut away 
from the ground surface. If a shoe were fitted nicely 
to the foot, after being dressed down well, it would be 
found too narrow and short for the same foot in the 
course of a few weeks. Consequently, if the shoe is 
nailed firmly, as is usually done, well back to the 
quarters, as the foot grows the restraint of the shoe 
prevents the foot from becoming wider, as before. 
The longer the shoe is kept on, the more increased 
growth of horn, consequently, the greater the pressure 
upon the quarters. If the bearing surface of the shoe 
is concave, as is usually the case, there is not only an 
increased lateral resistance upon the quarters on ac- 
count of the growth of the foot against the restraint of 
nailing, but the tending of the heel to slide inward, as 
weight is thrown upon the foot, causes so much press- 
ure ultimately upon the delicate fleshy structure be- 
tween the hoof and the cofiin bone, as to cause it to 
become bruised and injured. This tendency is increas- 
ed by allowing the hoof and frog to become dry and 
hard. The increased heat induced by inflamation 
causes an increased absorbtion of moisture. The 
dryer and harder the hoof becomes the more it is con- 
tracted in size. Hence we see three disturbing causes 
of injury and contraction. If, also, the sole should 
rest upon the shoe at the heels, or in fastening the 
shoes to the feet the nails were driven too near or into 
the quick, there would be increased injury, which 
would cause a change of structure, or the formation 
of matter, resulting in serious or incurable lameness. 
In trimming and preparing the hoof for the shoe, the 
object should be to shape and reduce the foot to its 
natural size and form. If the shoes have been on a 
month, cut away the horn grown, more or less, ac- 



THE SHOE 

Should be proportioned in weight to the size of the 
foot and work of the horse. If the hoof is thin-shell- 
ed, and the horse is not worked much^the shoe should 
be hght ; but if the work is hard, the shoes should be 
rather heavy. The form and size of the shoe should 
be adapted exactly to that of the foot, of an equal 



76 HORSE TRAINING. "m 

cording to the length of time the shoes have been on, 
and the quantity of horn grown. Bring down the 
bearing surface to almost a level with the live horn of 
the sole, making it nice and level. If the foot is in a 
healthy condition, it is seldom necessary to interfere 
W'ith the sole or frog. I'he sole and frog throw off the 
old horn by exfoliation. Sometimes the shoe extends : 
in over the sole so close and so far as to prevent this 
old horn either wearing or scaling off the sole. When 
this condition is found, it should be dressed out, par- 
ticularly at the heels, at the angles formed between the 
bars and crust. The bars should not be cut lower than 
the rest of the heel, so that the bearing should be 
equal upon the shoe. The practice of trimming out 
the openings (commissures) between the bars and frog 
must not be permitted. The walls of this part of the 
hoof are quite thin, and cutting out this part, to give 
the heels an open appearance, only weakens the shell 
and induces greater tendency to contraction. The 
bearing surface should be leveled down nicely, but left 
a little higher than the sole, so that there can be no 
possible bearing of the sole upon the shoe. If the 
heels are strong and upright do not be afraid to cut 
them down ; there is a tendency to contraction in such 
feet. The best rule is to cut down and level the hoof 
to its natural condition. 



t 



HORSE TRAINING. ^"J 

thickness from the heel to the toe, perfectly level on 
the bearing surface. 

The shoe should be fitted in size so that it will come 
out nice and even under the toe, when the hoof is 
rounded oft' a little from the clinches down, and come 
out evenly under the quarters, becoming a little wider 
at the heels, and long enough to extend back of the 
extreme bearing of the heels about a quarter of an 
inch. 

It is customary to lower the inside edge of the bear- 
ing surface of the shoe, termed seating. The part 
coming under the crust is intended to be level, and 
should be, while the inside edge extending under the 
sole is hammered down, with the object of being low- 
ered from the bearing of the sole. This seating is car- 
ried so far back to the extreme of the heel that when 
the shoe is set, if much wider at the heel than the foot, 
the level space is just outside of the crust, while the 
bearing comes on this concave surface. Indeed, near- 
ly every shoe fitted by the average of smiths, is more 
or less concave at the heels. This should be strictly 
guarded against. The part upon which the heels rest 
should be perfectly level. 

NAIL HOLES AND NAILING. 

Much depends in the location of the nail holes in 
the shoe. If the smith were to examine the thickness 
of the hoof of an ordinary well bred horse, he would 
be surprised at its thinness, and he would see the im- 
portance, in the first place, of making the holes near 
the edges well forward in the toe, and of not putting 
the shoe so far under the shell as to betray into driving 
the nails too deeply into it ; or of having the nails so 
large as to split and shatter the hoof 

If the nail holes are made well into the shoe, and the 



78 HORSE TRAINING. 



I 

well 



shoe should be a little narrow or short, and be set well 
under the hoof, the nails must be driven very near or 
into the quick, and the horse is made tender footed, or it 
becomes the cause of lameness. Therefore the smith 
must punch the nail hole so far forward in the toe as to 
prevent needless restraint upon the quarters, and so near 
the edge of the shoe as not to endanger driving the nails 
too deep into the crust. The nails should not be very- 
large, nor a greater number driven than is necessary to 
hold the shoe. 

Have the nail holes made well forward on both sides, 
three on the inner and four on the outer side, or nail well 
back on the outside quarter but well forward in the toe 
on the inside. If it is necessary to drive eight nails, they 
can be put in the same space at the toe. Care should be 
used not to hie too deeply under the clinches, and in 
finishing off, the file should not be touched above the 
clinches, and below only enough to round the toe a little. 
The outside of the hoof is much more dense and hard 
than the inside. The small spaces between the fibers of ^1 
horn are filled with a soft substance, the better to prevent": 
a too rapid evaporation of moisture. If the whole sur- 
face of the hoof is rasped, the best part is not only likely 
to be cut away, but too rapid evaporation takes place, 
and the hoof is weakened and becomes dry, hard and 
contracted. 

CONTRACTED FEET. 

A contracted condition of the feet is produced sograd-' 
ually by the causes before explained, that the owner does 
not notice the alteration of structure and diminished size 
of the hoof until the horse becomes so decidedly tender 
footed and unable to travel that it is found necessary to 
do something to restore the animal to a condition of use- 
fulness. When the hoof is small and contracted, dress 



HORSE TRAINING. 79 

down pretty thoroughly. The heel will be found to 
have grown very long and the sole much thickened. 
The foot may appear small, but do not hesitate to cut 
away until the sole is down to its natural thickness. The 
bearing surface of the hoof should be filed down level, 
while the sole must be so thoroughly and nicely thinned 
out that it will not touch the shoe. Fit the shoe so as to 
come out full and even with the hoof all the way round. 
Have the nail-holes well forward in the toe — the quarters 
and heels must now be given entire freedom. So ham- 
mer and file the bearing surface of the shoe at the heels 
that the outside edge will be about a sixteenth of an inch 
lower than the inside. This convexed form of surface 
should extend from the extreme of the heel well forward 
and gradually run out at the toe. Then fit the shoe 
nicely to the foot and nail it on lightly. The object 
next is to soften the frog and hoof: Stuff the feet wi:h 
flax-seed meal and a little wood ashes and swab the hoof 
thoroughly with the preparation of Oil of Tar and Fish 
Oil, so as to keep the foot soft. The heels are now rest- 
ing on two inclined planes, and the horn is so softened 
that its elasticity is restored, while the shoe is so nailed 
on that the heels are free to expand as growth and exer- 
cise gradually forces pressure upon the heels outward. 
The shoes should be reset often and the same care in 
fitting, nailing, poulticing, etc., be continued as may be 
necessary. The smith must be particular not to lower 
the outside edge of the bearing surface more than a 
sixteenth of an inch, with a simple flat surface from the 
outside to the inside edge, or the shoe must not be seat- 
ed, and the lowering of the surface extend from the in- 
side edge outward. 



Appear in the angle of the hoof near the heel. They 



8o HORSE TRAINING. 

are generally caused by the shoe being worn too long, 
causing the shell of the hoof to grow over the shoe, 
which throws the weight upon the sole ; or the angles 
between the bar and crust are not properly dressed out. 
If the descending heel of the coffin bone meets with too 
much resistance by want of elasticity in the sole at this 
place, the sensitive sole is apt to be so bruised and injur- 
ed as to cause this effect. Corns are a simple contused 
wound of the sensitive sole. If of an ordinary character, 
upon cutting away the horn there will be found a Httl© 
red spot. If very bad the color will be dark purple. 

If this condition is neglected, matter may be formed, 
or the inflamation may cause the lateral cartilages which 
are attached to the wings of the coffin bone to a bony 
condition. The corn should be well cut out and a little 
butyr of Antimony applied to the part, or saturate well 
with pine gum, which is found to exude from the sap of 
pine trees when cut. Fill the cavity nicely with tow 
and put on the shoe, so fitted that there will be no press- 
ure upon the part. The shoes should be reset often, 
until a healthy condition of the parts is produced. 

QUARTER CRACK. 

When the hoof is dry and hard it is easily split. A 
hoof is often split by driving large nails. If the concus- 
sion is made very great, by driving the horse fast, over a 
hard road, and the hoof is thin, contracted and hard, the 
inside quarter is liable to burst open. 

Cut down the hoof back of the crack, so that there is 
no pressure of that part of the bearing surface upon the 
shoe. Then soften and grow down the hoof rapidly by 
applying any good stimulating hoof ointment. A ' mix- 
ture of equal portions of tar lard and turpentine is excel- 
lent. Then sear with a hot iron across above the crack 
which will prevent the hoof splitting up as it grow? 



horsp: training. oi 

down. The fitting of the shoe should be carefully at- 
tended to, the hoof grown down as rapidly as is safe to 
do, and the part kept clean by covering it with a little 
tar or butter, or a mixture of tar and resin, 

INTERFERING, 

To" prevent interfering, the shoe should be formed so 
as to bring the portion which strikes the ankle well under 
the hoof. To do this well, that side of the shoe should 
be made rather straight, with the web narrow, and the nail 
holes well forward in the toe. There must be no nails 
driven into the part of the hoof that strikes, as the 
clinches would be likely to cut. The object is to have 
the shoe litted and filed nice and smoothly and set well 
under the quarters, so that after the hoof is rasped off, 
all it is prudent to do, and rounded down nicely, the shoe 
sets far enough under not to endanger its cutting, yet sup- 
port the hoof and give a natural bearing to the foot. 

PRICKING. 

If the smith should happen to drive a nail so deep into 
the crust as to strike the sensative part, he should by no 
means drive a nail in that hole again, so that if matter is 
formed by the injury there will be an outlet for it. If 
the horse b2comes lame from being shod, examine the foot 
carefully. If pricked by driving any of the nails too near 
the quick, there will be heat and tenderness in the hoof, 
easily discovered. Have the shoe taken off. Cut down 
to where the nail strikes the quick, enough to allow any 
matter to escape. Poultice with flax-seed meal until the 
inflamation is reduced, when a little tar, resin and tallow, 
cr something of this kind should be put on and the open- 
ing filled up with a little tow, to prevent gravel cr dirt 
getting in, and the shoe put on again nicely. Shoes 
should be reset at le:ist once in from four to seven weeks. 



I 



RECIPES. 



WEAK F.YES, OR HOOKS. 

First, rowel below the eyes, and in the jaws — then il* 
the eyes are much inflamed, bleed two gallons from the 
neck vein, and use the eye wash or eye lotion every 
morning; move the rowels every day, and let them re- 
main in fifteen or twenty days. If the eye shows a white 
speck in the centre, there is no cure for it — the nerve of 
the eye is aftected ; but as long as the eye runs water or 
the eyehds swell, there is hope of it. All young horses 
are liable to have weak eyes. 

EYE LOTION HOW TO MAKE IT. 

Take a good quality of linseed oil, i pint; add to it 2 
oz. of spirits of ether, gum camphor, 1-2 oz. Let it 
stand in some warm place until the oil cuts the gum, and 
it is fit for use. Apply it to the eye every morning with 
a soft feather ; get it into the eyes as well as possible. 
This is better in winter than the wash, but the wash is 
best for summer. 

EYE WASH. 

Take of sugar of lead, 2 drachms, white vitrol, l 
drachm, laudnum, 1 oz. ; add to this 1 quart of soft water. 
Wash the eyes out well every morning, after first washing 
them thoroughly with cold water; follow this up for 
three or four weeks, and then if the eyes are not much 
better, bleed and give a mild physic. The horse should 



HORSE TRAIN IN'G. 83 

be kept on low diet, and not over heated or worked too 
hard. Scalded bran and oats are good. . 

FISTULA, OR POLL EVIL. 

■ Cause — A bruise or stroke of some kind produces fever 
in the muscles. Cure it before it breaks. Run a rowel 
or seton from the lower part of the swelling to the top, 
through the centre of the enlargement, then make the 
following lotions : Take of sal ammoniac, 2 oz., turpen- 
tine spirits, 1-2 pint, 4 oz. linseed oil, and 4 oz. spirits of 
tar; shake all well, and apply it all over the swelling 
every other day ; let the seton stay in until all the swell- 
ing is gone down — move it every day, and when all is 
gone, draw it out. Bleed when you first open it ; keep 
the part clean. 

FISTULA AFTER IT BREAKS. 

If you find by probing it that the pipes run down to- 
ward the surface, run down a seton through the bottom 
of the pipe, and annoint it with the following ointment : 
Take mercurial ointment, 4 oz,, and cantharides, 1-2 oz.; 
annoint the seton every day until it runs a bloody matter, 
fhen draw it out. If the pipes run down the centre of 
the shoulders, then run down a piece of nitrate of silver 
to the bottom, and use the liquid in the following receipt ; 
apply it orf'^the swelling and on the sore every day ; keep 
the part clean with soap and water. 

LIQUID FOR FISTULA, OR POLL EVIL. 

Take olive oil, 6 oz., turpentine, 1-2 oz., oil of ori- 
ganum, 1-2 oz., American or Seneca oil, 3 oz. Mix well 
and apply it to the affected part after the nitrate of silver 
has been used ; apply this every few days, until it heals 
up. The cleaner you keep the part the better. 



84 HORSE TRAINING. 

STIFF SHOULDERS, OR. SWEENEY. 

Rowel from top of shoulder blade down as far as there 
is no feeling; first cut through the skin, and then two thin 
fibres or striffings; use the blunt needle; move it back 
and forward five or six inches; draw in a tape or seton, 
and the next morning wet it with the tincture of canthar- 
ides; do this every day; move them every day; wash 
the part clean; let the tape stay in until the matter 
changes to blood ; this is for both diseases. Let him run 
out if possible ; he will be well in six or eight weeks ; if 
for Sweeney, you may work him all the time. 

HOOF-BOUND, OR T.'NDER FELT. 

Cause ot this is fever in the feet, founder, or gravel. 
The symptoms are hot feet and a drawing in one inch 
from the top of the feet at the heels. Never have the 
feet spread at the heels, nor rasped above the nail holes, 
for it will do the foot an injury. Follow the directions 
given here. Use either the hoof ointment or the hoof 
liquid; apply it according to the printed directions. For 
hoof-bound or tender feet, apply it all around the top of 
the hoof, down one inch, every third day ; if for split 
hoof, apply it every day. First have a stiff" shoe on the 
foot, and cleanse the cut or crack. Never cut or burn 
for it. 

HOOF OINTMENT. 

Take resin, 4 oz., beeswax, 6 o/.., lard, 2 lbs. ; melt 
tcgether, pour it into a pot, add 3 oz. of turpentine, 2 
oz. of finely powdered verdigris, and 1 lb. of tallow ; 
stir it until it gets cool. This is one of the best medi- 
cines for the hoof ever used. It is good for corks or 
bruises of the feet. Follow the directions. 

HOOF LIQUID. 

For tender feet, hoof-bound, etc. Linseed oil, or 



HORSE TRAINING. 85 

neatsfoot oil, 1-2 pint of either, turpentine, 4 oz., oil of 
tar, 6 oz., origanum, 3 oz. Shake this well and apply it 
according to the directions for the ointment. This is the 
best if the horse has been made lame long ; it penetrates 
the hoof sooner than the ointment ; both of them should 
be appHed at night, so the horse can go to work in the 
morning. He need not lose one day's work. 

HOOF EVIL, OR THRUSH, GREASE HEELS. 

Cause of this disease is over feed, and want of exercise 
or standing in a filthy stable. Symptoms, well known — a 
discharge of offensive matter from the frog of the foot, and 
around the top of the foot; often the frog of the foot will 
come out; then you must put a stift' shoe on the foot to 
keep the foot from contracting. 

Cure — Bleed and physic, and poultice the foot with 
boiled turnip, and some fine ground charcoal ; this must 
be done every night, for two or three nights, then wash 
the foot clean with castile soap and soft water, and apply 
the blue ointment every day; keep the horse on a clean 
floor and he will be well in twelve clays. 

HOW TO MAKE THE BLUE OINTMENT. 

Take the ointment of rosin, 4 oz., 1-2 oz. of finely 
ground verdigris, 2 oz. of turpentine, mutton tallow, 2 
lbs., 1-3 oz. oil of origanum, 1-3 oz. tinct. iodine; mix 
all well. This is one of the best medicines that can be 
made for scratches, hoof evil, or cuts, and is good to apply 
on fistula after the rowels are taken out. 

LUNG FEVER. 

Sv?nptoms. — The horse is taken with a chill, then 
breaks out in a cold clammy sweat, holds down his head, 
never offers to lie down, but groans when made to move ; 
his ears and legs are deadly cold. The cuase of this is 
change from warm to cold stable, too much cold water 
when warm. 



86 HORSE TRAINrN(}. ^^ 

Cure. — Bleed four gallons from the neck vein, and take 
1 oz. of aconite, add to it 1-2 gallon of cold water; 
drench him with one gill of it every three hours, blister 
him over the lungs, then give him water to drink that hay 
has been boiled in; add to each gallon of it 1 oz. of gum 
arable, and 1-2 oz. spirits of nitre, give this every four 
hours ; rub well ; foment and rub the legs with alcohol 
and camphor, until they get warm ; do not move him. 
Keep him in open stall if hot weather. 

DISEASES OF THE LIVER, OR YELLOW WATER. 

Symptoms. — The eyes run and turn yellow, the bars 
of the mouth the same ; the hair and mane get loose, 
and he often is lame in the right shoulder and very 
costive. 

Cure. — Give the following ball every morning until it 
operates upon the bowels. Take 7 drachms aloes, 1 »J 
drachm of calomel, 4 drachms of ginger, and molasses ' • 
enough to make it into a ball ; wrap it in paper and give 
it. Give scalded bran and oats, grass if it can be got. 
When his bowels have moved, stop the physic, and give 
I oz. of spirits of camphor, in a pint of water every morn- 
ing for twelve days ; rowel in the breast and give a few 
doses of cleansing powder. 

CLEANSING POWDER. 

This is good for coughs. It is used when the blood is 
out of order; good to restore lost appetite, and for yellow 
water. Take 1 lb. of good ginger, 4 oz. powder gentain, 
1 o;-. nitre, 1-2 oz. crude antimony; mix all well; give 
one large spoonful every day in wet food. This is per- 
fectly safe. 

NASAL GLEET, OR DISCHARGE FROM THE NOSE. 

The cause of this is neglect in distemper, or over heat 
or cold. This is a white discharge from the nose, is not 
contagious, and can be cured. 



I 



HORSE J'KALMXG. Sj 

Cure. — Stop working him; take of alum 1-2 lb., 1-2 
lb. rosin, 1-2 lb. blue vitrol. Grind and mix well with 
1-2 lb. of ginger; give one large spoonful every night and 
morning. Bleed one gallon. Keep him out of wet and 
do not work him. 

DISEASE OK THE KIDNEYS. 

Caused by feeding dirty or musty grain, hard drawing, 
over-loading him, or by giving him too much turpentine. 

Cure. — Blister over the kidneys, and give the following 
pills every day : take 1 oz. rosin, 1 oz. juniper berries, 
ground fine, and flour, 2 oz. ; make all into a stiff* paste; 
divide into seven pills, and give one every night, then 
use the cleansing powder every day. If the horse has 
trouble to get up when he lies down, swing him up for 
two weeks. Give no food but that which is clean. 
This is half the cure. Do not work or ride him. 

HOW TO MAKE THE WHITE OINTMENT. 

For rheumatism, sprains, burns, swellings, bruises or 
any inflamation on man or beast, chapped hands or lips, 
black eyes, or any kind of bruises. Take fresh butter, 2 
lbs., tinct. iodine, 1-2 oz., oil origanum, 2 oz. ; mix this 
well for fifteen minutes and it is fit for use. Apply it 
every night; rub it in well with your hand ; if for human 
flesh, lay on with warm flannel. 

BLACK LINIMENT. 

This is good to apply on poll evil, fistula. Take 1-2 
pint Unseed oil, 3 oz, tinct. iodine, 4 oz. turpentine, i oz. 
oil of origanum ; shake well and apply it every day ; rub 
in well with your hand ; wash the part clean with soap 
and water before applying it. This is good on any swell- 
ing- 

SORE MOUTH OR TONGUE CALLED CANKER OR THRUSH. 

Sy/np/ofiis. — The mouth runs water ; the horse coods 



88 HORSE TRAINING. 

or throws his hay oat of his mouth. The cause of this 
is frequently from frosty bits being put into the mouth, 
or by eating poisonous weeds. 

Cure. — Take of borax, 3 drachms, 2 drachms sugar of 
lead, 1-2 oz. alum, 1 pint of vinegar, 1 pint sage tea; 
shake all well together, and wash the mouth out every 
morning. Give no hay for twelve days. 

GROGGY KNEES. 

The cause of this is sprains or over driving, or by hav 
ing corks and no toes on the shoes. This can be cured in| 
the first stages, but if of long standing, there is no cure. 

Cure, — Have shoes made thick at the toe and thin at 
the heel. Take Hnseed oil, 1-2 pint, alcohol, 4 oz., l 
oz. camphor spirits, 2 oz. laudnum ; shake and apply to 
back part of legs ; rub it in well every four days ; still in- 
crease the thickness of the shoe at the toe. 

HOW TO REMOVE WARTS. 

Cut them out by the roots; take the tenaculum or 
hook, run it through the warts and draw it out. If it 
should bleed too much, take 5 grains nitrate of silver, and 
1 oz. water, wet a sponge and merely touch the parts 
with the wash, and it will stop them. Treat it as any 
fresh wound. Every time you wash it scratch the scab 
off, so the scar will be small. This is the only sure way 
to treat them. 

EOTS. 

Symptoms. — Very much like those of colic; the ears 
and legs are hot, and sometimes the sweat will start in the 
flank and breast. 

Cure. — Make 1-2 gallon of sage tea; add to it 1 oz. 
alum, drench with one-half of it, and if he is not better 
in thirtv or forty minutes, give the balance, and bleed one 
gallon; in six hours give a mild physic; this will never 



HORSE TRAINING. 89 

fail if given in time. Never give turpentine, as many do; 
it will affect the kidneys. 



Sy/npfoms. — The horse lies down and gets up often, 
and looks at his flanks; his ears and legs are cold. Cause 
of this is cold water, and change of food, over quantity 
of acid collecting in the stomach. 

Cure. — Take laudnum, 1-2 oz., sulphuric ether, 1 oz., 
1-2 pint water, milk-warm; drench, and if not better in 
forty or fifty minutes, bleed and repeat the drench. Do 
not allow the horse to be moved while sick. 

FOUNDER, IN THE FIP.ST STAGES. 

Sy?nplo?ns. — The horse is stiff, his feet hot, and often 
trembles ; very thirsty. 

Cure. — Bleed from the neck vein three or four gallons, 
or until he falls, then give the following: 1-2 oz. aloes, 4 
drachms gamboge, 1-2 oz. oil sassafras; m^ake this into a 
pill, give it, and give him all the sassafras tea he will 
drink ; turn up his feet and fill them full of boiling hot 
lard; bathe his legs in hot water, and rub them well. 
This will never fail to cure in forty-eight hours. 

MAGRINS, OR DUMBNESS IN HORSES. 

This disease makes its appearance in different forms. 

Frequently it is noticed by the dullness of the horse in 

driving, and the inclination to leave the road or bear hard 

upon one rein, and incline to sleep while standing; and 

again he appears to have lost all feeling, pays no attention 

to the whip, will go to sleep with a mouth full of feed ; 

in other instances, the horse is taken with a jerking up 

of the head, and will run back and fall down, lie a few 

I minutes, and get up again and go on. This is called by 

I some, fits, but it is the same disease, and by another form 

I caused frequently by high feeding and want of exercise; 



i 



90 HORSE TRAINING. 

this is by too large quantities of blood passing to the 
brain. It is supposed by some to be dropsy of the brain, 
but this is not the fact. 

Cure. — Doubtful in all cases. Treatment tor the 
dumb horse: — Bleed and physic; keep in cool stable; 
give regutar exercise ; reduce his flesh by taking strong 
feed from him, and give him fodder or blades of grass for 
the dumb horse; give him 1-2 oz. tinct. asafcetida every 
day for one week, and then tie the gum, open the bitts 
and wear it on them all the time. The same is proper 
in all forms of this disease. Horses in the Southern 
States are very subject to this disease. They call it sun- 
stroke. It is wrong to keep horses in hot cellar stables, 
without being well ventilated. The stable should belj 
kept clean and lime applied every tv/elve days. Open f I 
the floors. The ammonia arising from the filthy stable is 
bad for this and all other diseases; hard on the eyes, etc. 

DISTEMPER. 

Symptoms. — Swelling under the jaws; cannot swallow. 

Cure. — Bleed two gallons and physic; then if a tumor is 
found under the jaws, open it; if not, apply the general 
liniment to the swelling, or white ointment. Make it 
break on the outside, if possible, then give the cleansing 
powder for ten or twelve days in mashes. Turn him out 
if you can get pasture. 

GENFRAL LINIMENT. 

Turpentine, 1-2 pint, linseed oil, 1-2 pint, aqua am- 
monia, 4 oz., tinct. iodine, 1 oz. ; shake it all well. This 
is used for different receipts, sores, swellings, sprains, etc. 

SPRAIN OF THE STIFLE. 

Symptoms. — The horse holds up his foot, moans when 
moved, swells in the stifle; this is what is called stifling; 
there is no such thing as this joint getting out of place. 



HORSE TRAINING. 9 1 

Cure. — Bleed two gallons; foment the stifle with hot 
water ; rub it dry, then bathe it well with the genenal 
liniment every morning and night ; give him a mash and 
he will be well. Never allow any stifle shoe or cord on 
the foot or leg. 

BROKEN KNEES. 

This is caused by the horse falling on his knees. First 
cleanse the part of all gravel and dirt, then wash them ; 
take 2 gills of alcohol, 1-2 oz. arnica; tie the knees up 
in coarse hnen, and if they swell in twenty-four hours, 
bleed ; keep the bowels open with mashes, and then ap- 
ply the blue or the iodine ointment every other day. Do 
not use the horse until he is perfectly well, or it may 
cause the knees to break out again. 



Symptoms The horse eats, but will not thrive; his 

belly gets big, his hair stays. 

Cure. — Give i quart of strong tea made of wormwood, 
at night. The next day give 7 drachms aloes, 2 drachms 
calomel, make it into a ball and give it; give no cold 
water for forty-eight hours, make it milk-warm ; give him 
two or three bran mashes, and some of the cleansing 
powder ; if he shows any more symptoms, repeat the 
dose in three weeks. This will never fail. 

PHYSIC BALL. 

1-2 oz. aloes, 3 drachms gamboge, 20 drops oil of 
juniper, make into a pill with a few drops of molasses. 
Wrap it up in a thin paper, and grease it. Draw out the 
tongue with the left hand, place the gag in the mouth, 
and run the pill back with the right hand until it drops 
off; let the head down and give a sup of water. First 
prepare the horse by giving one or two mashes. 



92 HORSE TRAINING, 

IODINE OINTMENT. 

Get I oz. iodine, i pint alcohol, let this stand in the 
sun two days, and this is the tincture of iodine. Take 
2 oz. tincture to 1-2 lb. lard, mix well, and you have 
the iodine ointment. 

BIG OR MILK LEG. 

This is brought on by a hurt, a want of action in the 
absorbent system.; it is dropsy of the muscles of the legs. 

Cure. — Apply liquid blisterer every three hours, until, 
it blisters; then in six hours grease with soft oil of any 
kind; then in eight days wash the part clean and apply 
it again; repeat it for three or four times, then use the 
iodine ointment. If this does not remove it, apply the 
spavin medicine, which will. 

LiqUID BLISTERER. 

Take alcohol, 1-2 pint, turpentine, 1-2 pint* aqua am- 
monia, 4 oz., oil origanum, 1 oz. Apply this as spoken 
of every three hours until it blisters. Do not repeat 
oftener than once in eight days, or seven at least, or it 
will kill the hair. 



I 



MANGE AND SURFEIT. 

Caused bv running out in wet weather, over driving, 
and poor cleaning. Symptoms. — The horse rubs and is • 
itchy all over, broken out in scabs. I 

Cure. — Bleed and physic, then take sulphur, 1-2 lb., 
2 lbs. lard, mix well ; grease the part aftected every three 
or four days, stand the horse in the sun until all dries in ; 
give him a few doses of the cleansing powder. 

INFLAMATION OF THE BOWELS. |B 

Symptoms very much like colic, followed by purging, 
proceeding too often from over-doses ol physic being ad- 
ministered to the horse, or from acid generated in the 



HORSE TRAINING. 93 

bowels by food. In addition to the purging, considerable 
pain attends this disease, which is indicated by the horse 
frequently looking around to his flanks ; with heaviness 
in his breathing, a quick, feeble pulse, hot mouth, ears 
and legs. 

Cause. — Large quantities of water when over-heated ; 
sudden change from warm to cold atmosphere ; plunging 
the horse when hot into cold w^ater. 

RLiiicdv. — Bleed one-half gallon from the neck, and 
give the following: gruel, 2 quarts, prepared chalk, 1 oz., 
catechu, 4 oz., opium, 2 scruples. The above should be 
repeated every 6 hours until the purging ceases. The 
horse must be kept clothed and v>'ell rubbed. If there is 
much tenderness in the bowels, by the pressure of the 
hands, it will be proper to apply the liquid blisterer over 
the bowels. 

CASTRATING HORSES WITHOUT THROWING THEM, OR THE 
USE OF CLAMPS OR MEDICINE. 

First twTtch the horse and apply chloroform to the nos- 
trils with a sponge ; then go on one knee, in front of the 
left hind leg, grasp the testicles with the left hand, and 
cut back through the scrotum, or bag. Now you can 
clamp, if you see ft, but apply no medicine. Open the 
clamps, for it is rank poison to the horse. I do away 
with the clamps by using spermatic shears. They are 
made by having a half circle in each bit 3-8 of an inch, 
so when the shears are closed, the half circle comes to- 
gether and forms a hole in the centre of the shears ; you 
place the shears above the stone, and draw the spermatic 
cord into the circle, then by closing the shears you cut 
all off but the cord, then you turn or tv/ist the stone 
seven or eight times round; tliis twists the artery and vein 
so it will not bleed when" the testicles are cut off. The 
shears are made with a spring in the point, or the blades 
are united by a spring at the point. 



94 



HORSE TRAIMxNG. 



SPAVIN AND RINGBONE MEDICINE. 

Take of cantharides, 2 oz., mercurial ointment 4 oz., 
corrosive sublimate, 3 drm., turpentine, 3 oz., tincture 
iodine, 2 oz., gum euphorbium, 1-2 oz. ; mix well with 
2 lbs. of lard; color it if you like. Follow the direc- 
tions here given. If for ringbone or bone spavin, cut 
off the hair from the part affected, and merely grease the 
lump with the ointment. Rub it in well with the naked 
hand. In two days grease the part with lard, and in 
four days wash it off with soap and water, and apply the 
ointment again. So repeat it every four days. It for 
windgalls or bog-spavin, or curb, apply the ointment 
every six days, for splints, the same. 

Johnson's liniment. 
Take oil origanum, i oz., alcohol, 1-2 pint, oil cedar, 
1-2 oz., oil cloves, 1-2 oz., turpentine, 1-2 oz., olive oil 
8 oz. — shake all well. This is used for almost all com- 
plaints of the muscles. 

FRESH WOUNDS. 

First stop the blood by tying the arteries, or by apply- 
ing the following wash : 4 grains nitrate of silver, 1 oz. 
soft water ; wet the wound with this, and then draw the 
edges together by stitches one inch apart, then wash clean 
and if any sweUing in twenty-four hours, bleed and apply 
the blue ointment or any of the hniments spoken of. 
Keep the bowels open. 

GREEN OINTMENT. 

Take 6 lbs. lard, put into ten gallon kettle, add two 
gallons of water; cut jimpson weeds and fill them in and 
cook them four to six hours, slow, and cook all the water 
out; then put into a jar ; add to each lb. of ointment, 1 
oz. turpentine. This is a cheap and good stable oint- 
ment — good for scratches, galls, cuts, etc. 



HORSE TRAINING. 95 

LAMPERS. 

All young horses are liable to this trouble; it is noth- 
ing but inflamation of the gums. 

Cure, — Bleed or scarify the gums; never burn, for it 
spoils the teeth, and adds to the cause of the disease. 
Give a bran mash; rub the gums with salt; give the 
cleansing powders. 

EARACHE. 

This is generally called flea in the ear. 

Symptoms. — The horse is taken suddenly with shaking 
of the head and holding it to one side or the other; these 
attacks are generally as soon as the animal is taken from 
the stable into the air. 

Cause. — This is frequently brought on by drenching 
the horse in the ear to cure fistula and poll evil. This 
practice should be abandoned. 

Cz/r^.— Equal portions oHve oil and laudnum ; shake 
well and drop fifteen or twenty drops into the ear every 
time the horse is taken. If you find, by pressing upon 
the under part of the ear, at the root, he flinches much, 
it would be proper to apply some of the liniment every 
few days. 



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